So, just a little information on the incredible technologies and applications at our fingertips today. This is best discussed in the context of my daily routines. Every morning I wake up and read the morning headlines from the NY Times, Wall Street Journal, and the Financial Times on my blackberry. After showering, I check and send the first few emails of the day before I sign onto Twitter and scan the posts of politicians, journalists, and friends to see what is being discussed today. By lunchtime I have received updates from email subscriptions to Brookings, Council on Foreign Relations, and McKinsey and Company. Today for instance, the McKinsey update contains a link to interviews with Edelman CEO, Richard Edelman and CFR President, Richard Haass. In separate interviews these prominent men spoke about the industries they work in, public relations and diplomacy respectively. What does the future hold for government and business relations? What will we do with the vast amount of information online today? Is it a good or bad thing that blogging, twittering, facebooking, and more have created a new population of 'experts'? Specifically, how do we separate the fact from fiction online? And what opportunities for positive change have these new web tools created?
The day continues with a scan of Craigslist for apartments in DC and a few google searches providing recent news on a company I am interviewing with in a few weeks. Finally, I listen to my weekly podcast of the BBC Radio 1 Chris Moyles show followed by a few chapters of the new Dan Brown book, The Lost Symbol. It is truly astounding the technology we have at our disposal today. Yet, I will continue to enjoy the simple things in life as well. Running, meditating, laughing with friends, and sitting down to a dinner with family.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
Wednesday, August 8, 2007
The Holy Land
My recent trip to Israel really was the icing on the cake of this summer. I didn't even plan to make this trip however when my roommate Akanksha mentioned she wanted to go I felt it was an opportunity I couldn't pass up. For obvious reasons my family and friends were concerned but after leaving many contact details and promises to email daily we boarded the bus late Thursday night and headed to Taba in Sinai. We crossed the border in Taba into Eilat and took another bus North to Jerusalem; a journey that took us along the Dead Sea. Yes, people really were floating in it reading!
After a 15-hour journey we finally arrived in the Old City at Jaffa Gate and found some beds at the Citadel Youth Hostel on St. David's St. This place is over 400 years old and has one of the best rooftop views of the Old City. In fact, you can even sleep on the roof for about $5 a night, quite a popular choice amongst young, poor travelers or pilgrims. To begin our stay and to orient us with the city we found our way to Damascus gate and the Church of the Flagellation, the site where Jesus was beaten before his crucifixion. Every day at 4 pm a group of Franciscan Monks lead a procession along the via Dolorosa past each Station of the Cross. This follows the path that Jesus was forced to take, while carrying his cross, to the site of the crucifixion. At each Station there are prayers and singing and finally the walk ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
There is some dispute about whether this Church was actually built on the site of the Crucifixion, as some believe the real location to be a hill just outside of the city walls. Regardless, this walk is an overwhelming display of people from all over the world, Christians and non-Christians, young and old, taking the time to relive a piece of Biblical history. The sight of so many walking through the narrow streets of Jerusalem praying and chanting was moving for me and must be a powerful sight to onlookers. I can attest to this because that same evening I found myself switching roles from worshiper to observer when we visited the Western Wall. It was a Friday night, the beginning of Shabbat or the Jewish Holy day, and we were met with an astonishing sight. The entire front of the wall and the plaza were filled with Jewish families of many nationalities in various styles of dress. I saw the long black robes, tall hats, and flowing beards of the ultra Orthodox as they rocked back and forth clutching prayer books. Interestingly, there is a barrier separating the men from the women and although this is strictly adhered to I noticed people on either side peering over to watch their relatives pray.
The next morning we took bus 124 from Jerusalem to the Bethlehem checkpoint. Here we had our first sight of the enormous concret wall dividing the West Bank from Israel. It is an imposing structure as is the security you must pass through to enter the other side. However, contrary to what we expected there were few people crossing at this time so we simply flashed our passports, passed through the metal detectors and were on our way into Palestine. For me Bethlehem was a "must see" place because of its religious significance as the birthplace of Jesus. Although I also had a strong interest in witnessing the conditions in Palestine and speaking with people there. The morning was spent visiting religious sites such as the Church of the Holy Nativity (the name speaks for itself), Milk's Grotto, Manger Square, and some Roman ruins on top of a Herodium's Mount. That afternoon, Akanksha and I walked the streets observing the people and noting the poverty. Mostly, it felt like the poorer areas of Cairo, except that the people we spoke revealed sadness and a sense of despair very different to Egyptians. This is a testament to their situation with limited job opportunities, restricted freedom of movement, and a constantly shifting political landscape. From just a few conversations I gained a better picture of the difficulties they face and unfortunately at present I don't really see a viable prospect for change.
Emboldened by our easy passage into and out of Bethlehem we decided to visit Ramallah the next day. There is in fact nothing historical there but we wanted to meet with a group called the Watch Women. This is a group of Israeli women who are against the occupation and working to promote human rights in the region. They visit the checkpoints and try to monitor the Israeli treatment of Palestinians in hopes that the soldiers will behave with less aggression under their watch. They gave us some fascinating insights into the attitudes of Israeli soldiers and the humiliating nature of the checkpoints for Palestinians. Personally, I was so glad for this opportunity because who knows how the situation may worsen in the future, but at least I can say I've seen these places with my own eyes.
For our remaining time in Jerusalem we also saw the Temple Mount, Dome of the Rock, Garden of the Tomb, and the Holocaust Museum Yad Veshem. Each place was significant and requires a more detailed account than I feel this post allows for, but it is enough to say that this city deserves the reverence it receives from each of the dominant monotheisms. In no other place in the world is the intersection between religion and daily life so strong. In fact, a man I met in the hostel, David, aptly described the city as a "thin" place where the separation between the spiritual and the physical becomes almost transparent. Jerusalem does have a 'presence' or a feeling that is recognized by the devout and the non-religious.
My four days in Israel presented once in a lifetime experiences that I will continue to dissect and ponder. It is just a shame
that at the same time my final days in Egypt are flying by.
After a 15-hour journey we finally arrived in the Old City at Jaffa Gate and found some beds at the Citadel Youth Hostel on St. David's St. This place is over 400 years old and has one of the best rooftop views of the Old City. In fact, you can even sleep on the roof for about $5 a night, quite a popular choice amongst young, poor travelers or pilgrims. To begin our stay and to orient us with the city we found our way to Damascus gate and the Church of the Flagellation, the site where Jesus was beaten before his crucifixion. Every day at 4 pm a group of Franciscan Monks lead a procession along the via Dolorosa past each Station of the Cross. This follows the path that Jesus was forced to take, while carrying his cross, to the site of the crucifixion. At each Station there are prayers and singing and finally the walk ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
There is some dispute about whether this Church was actually built on the site of the Crucifixion, as some believe the real location to be a hill just outside of the city walls. Regardless, this walk is an overwhelming display of people from all over the world, Christians and non-Christians, young and old, taking the time to relive a piece of Biblical history. The sight of so many walking through the narrow streets of Jerusalem praying and chanting was moving for me and must be a powerful sight to onlookers. I can attest to this because that same evening I found myself switching roles from worshiper to observer when we visited the Western Wall. It was a Friday night, the beginning of Shabbat or the Jewish Holy day, and we were met with an astonishing sight. The entire front of the wall and the plaza were filled with Jewish families of many nationalities in various styles of dress. I saw the long black robes, tall hats, and flowing beards of the ultra Orthodox as they rocked back and forth clutching prayer books. Interestingly, there is a barrier separating the men from the women and although this is strictly adhered to I noticed people on either side peering over to watch their relatives pray.
The next morning we took bus 124 from Jerusalem to the Bethlehem checkpoint. Here we had our first sight of the enormous concret wall dividing the West Bank from Israel. It is an imposing structure as is the security you must pass through to enter the other side. However, contrary to what we expected there were few people crossing at this time so we simply flashed our passports, passed through the metal detectors and were on our way into Palestine. For me Bethlehem was a "must see" place because of its religious significance as the birthplace of Jesus. Although I also had a strong interest in witnessing the conditions in Palestine and speaking with people there. The morning was spent visiting religious sites such as the Church of the Holy Nativity (the name speaks for itself), Milk's Grotto, Manger Square, and some Roman ruins on top of a Herodium's Mount. That afternoon, Akanksha and I walked the streets observing the people and noting the poverty. Mostly, it felt like the poorer areas of Cairo, except that the people we spoke revealed sadness and a sense of despair very different to Egyptians. This is a testament to their situation with limited job opportunities, restricted freedom of movement, and a constantly shifting political landscape. From just a few conversations I gained a better picture of the difficulties they face and unfortunately at present I don't really see a viable prospect for change.
Emboldened by our easy passage into and out of Bethlehem we decided to visit Ramallah the next day. There is in fact nothing historical there but we wanted to meet with a group called the Watch Women. This is a group of Israeli women who are against the occupation and working to promote human rights in the region. They visit the checkpoints and try to monitor the Israeli treatment of Palestinians in hopes that the soldiers will behave with less aggression under their watch. They gave us some fascinating insights into the attitudes of Israeli soldiers and the humiliating nature of the checkpoints for Palestinians. Personally, I was so glad for this opportunity because who knows how the situation may worsen in the future, but at least I can say I've seen these places with my own eyes.
For our remaining time in Jerusalem we also saw the Temple Mount, Dome of the Rock, Garden of the Tomb, and the Holocaust Museum Yad Veshem. Each place was significant and requires a more detailed account than I feel this post allows for, but it is enough to say that this city deserves the reverence it receives from each of the dominant monotheisms. In no other place in the world is the intersection between religion and daily life so strong. In fact, a man I met in the hostel, David, aptly described the city as a "thin" place where the separation between the spiritual and the physical becomes almost transparent. Jerusalem does have a 'presence' or a feeling that is recognized by the devout and the non-religious.
My four days in Israel presented once in a lifetime experiences that I will continue to dissect and ponder. It is just a shame
that at the same time my final days in Egypt are flying by.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Alexandria
And so after many failed attempts and change of plans Akanksha and I made it to Alexandria last weekend. It is a city we've been planning to visit all month and as it is only a couple hours north of Cairo by train it is perfect for a weekend trip. We arrived at Ramses station early Friday morning to be told that we could only buy tickets for the 2pm train as the earlier ones were all full. However, even in these situations it is acceptable to buy a ticket on board but there are no guarantees that there will be seating available. So, we wandered down the platform debating which car we should board that would hopefully have somewhere to sit.
After spotting a man in uniform I decided to ask him which car would be the least crowded. He told us that the 2nd car was our best bet and proceeded to lead us down to the end of the platform. Then he waited with us until the train arrived and insisted on helping us on with our bags. You might be thinking "Oh how nice and helpful" but actually it is common practice in public places, at tourist sites, in restrooms, basically everywhere that if anybody does anything for you, whether you ask for it or not, they expect a tip. So, of course we were obliged to tip him a couple pounds just for pointing us in the right direction. I mean he is a train station employee for goodness sake... this should really be his job.
I still find the constant tipping to be annoying as often it is for the smallest, most basic services. For example, in toilets when I don't have small enough change to tip the woman I am often met with unpleasant remarks or gestures. I've even had a toilet lady stand in the doorway of the restroom as if to block me from exiting because I had not tipped her. And seriously for what!! If I am using a restroom with no soap, no toilet paper, and a soiled floor I see no reason to tip the lady. So many of these people don't do anything very useful and still want to take your money. I find it infuriating on principle that to part with my money, no matter how small an amount, I should have gained something in return. But when it is just a case of pointing at the correct car or telling me the number I don't see why I should owe the man anything. Why can't that just be a nice thing to do... to help someone or give them directions. I often give change to homeless people too but as this is of my own volition and not forced I am much more comfortable with it.
I mean even though I am ranting about this now I do understand how and why this system exists in developing countries. Most of these people are on such meager salaries that the only way they get by is on tips. Plus, in predominately Muslim countries the obligation of alms giving is very present in society. So, if you are perceived to be wealthy you should give freely to the poor. Hence the reason so many people ask foreigners where they are from, so they can judge how wealthy you are and how much of a tip they should expect. I have taken to saying I'm from Slovenia or some other Eastern European country, not only to spare myself from the Anti-Bush/America remarks but also because they expect less of a tip. Surprisingly they are not very good with accents either as I get away with this even though I sound distinctly American!
Besides this small rant tangent the rest of the journey to Alex was uneventful and we did mange to find spare seats in an air-conditioned car. That afternoon we visited the famous Library of Alexandria which is a beautifully designed, expansive building, supposedly located on the site of the first library in the world. This impressive feat of architecture was inaugurated 5 years ago and apparently it has enough shelf space for around 8 million books! We relaxed in the cool ac until late evening when we went for a seafood dinner in local restaurant recommended to us by a friend. We were not disappointed by the food as it was well prepared and the choices were endless however, I was surprised to see a huge turtle in a bathtub in the entry way. I guess the fact that turtles are endangered does not deter Egyptians from eating them! I was half tempted to pick him up and make a run for the sea but he was huge and probably worth more money than I had on me if I was caught.
There are not many sites to see in Alex but we enjoyed sitting on the Corniche watching people. Also, as I was mid way through the last Harry Potter I had no qualms just sitting in a coffeshop reading. When it was time to return to Cairo we decided to take the slightly cheaper option of a microbus, a type of minivan that fits 12 people snugly. It was only the equivalent of $3 for the 3 hr journey but it was so cramped, hot, and uncomfortable that I doubt it is worth even that price! My discomfort was not diminished by the fact that our driver was in a foul mood and insisted on arguing with the workers at the gas station for what felt like an age. Ok maybe I'm being dramatic but it was humid as hell and my legs were somewhere up by my chest and there he was picking a fight with the guy who pumps the gas. Again though this is a fairly common sight, I see fights in the street between drivers on a daily basis. Something to do with the heat and the frequent traffic jams creates a violence prone atmosphere.
It is all just a series of experiences that amuse, annoy, please, and surprise me. I'll be taking much more with me than just Pharonic figurines when I leave Cairo in less than two weeks.
After spotting a man in uniform I decided to ask him which car would be the least crowded. He told us that the 2nd car was our best bet and proceeded to lead us down to the end of the platform. Then he waited with us until the train arrived and insisted on helping us on with our bags. You might be thinking "Oh how nice and helpful" but actually it is common practice in public places, at tourist sites, in restrooms, basically everywhere that if anybody does anything for you, whether you ask for it or not, they expect a tip. So, of course we were obliged to tip him a couple pounds just for pointing us in the right direction. I mean he is a train station employee for goodness sake... this should really be his job.
I still find the constant tipping to be annoying as often it is for the smallest, most basic services. For example, in toilets when I don't have small enough change to tip the woman I am often met with unpleasant remarks or gestures. I've even had a toilet lady stand in the doorway of the restroom as if to block me from exiting because I had not tipped her. And seriously for what!! If I am using a restroom with no soap, no toilet paper, and a soiled floor I see no reason to tip the lady. So many of these people don't do anything very useful and still want to take your money. I find it infuriating on principle that to part with my money, no matter how small an amount, I should have gained something in return. But when it is just a case of pointing at the correct car or telling me the number I don't see why I should owe the man anything. Why can't that just be a nice thing to do... to help someone or give them directions. I often give change to homeless people too but as this is of my own volition and not forced I am much more comfortable with it.
I mean even though I am ranting about this now I do understand how and why this system exists in developing countries. Most of these people are on such meager salaries that the only way they get by is on tips. Plus, in predominately Muslim countries the obligation of alms giving is very present in society. So, if you are perceived to be wealthy you should give freely to the poor. Hence the reason so many people ask foreigners where they are from, so they can judge how wealthy you are and how much of a tip they should expect. I have taken to saying I'm from Slovenia or some other Eastern European country, not only to spare myself from the Anti-Bush/America remarks but also because they expect less of a tip. Surprisingly they are not very good with accents either as I get away with this even though I sound distinctly American!
Besides this small rant tangent the rest of the journey to Alex was uneventful and we did mange to find spare seats in an air-conditioned car. That afternoon we visited the famous Library of Alexandria which is a beautifully designed, expansive building, supposedly located on the site of the first library in the world. This impressive feat of architecture was inaugurated 5 years ago and apparently it has enough shelf space for around 8 million books! We relaxed in the cool ac until late evening when we went for a seafood dinner in local restaurant recommended to us by a friend. We were not disappointed by the food as it was well prepared and the choices were endless however, I was surprised to see a huge turtle in a bathtub in the entry way. I guess the fact that turtles are endangered does not deter Egyptians from eating them! I was half tempted to pick him up and make a run for the sea but he was huge and probably worth more money than I had on me if I was caught.
There are not many sites to see in Alex but we enjoyed sitting on the Corniche watching people. Also, as I was mid way through the last Harry Potter I had no qualms just sitting in a coffeshop reading. When it was time to return to Cairo we decided to take the slightly cheaper option of a microbus, a type of minivan that fits 12 people snugly. It was only the equivalent of $3 for the 3 hr journey but it was so cramped, hot, and uncomfortable that I doubt it is worth even that price! My discomfort was not diminished by the fact that our driver was in a foul mood and insisted on arguing with the workers at the gas station for what felt like an age. Ok maybe I'm being dramatic but it was humid as hell and my legs were somewhere up by my chest and there he was picking a fight with the guy who pumps the gas. Again though this is a fairly common sight, I see fights in the street between drivers on a daily basis. Something to do with the heat and the frequent traffic jams creates a violence prone atmosphere.
It is all just a series of experiences that amuse, annoy, please, and surprise me. I'll be taking much more with me than just Pharonic figurines when I leave Cairo in less than two weeks.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Sinai shots
1. Freezing cold waiting for sunrise
2. View from the top
3. Worth the climb for this shot
4. Mount Sinai
5. Dust bunnies in the desert
Spectacular Sinai
Just returned from a four-day trip to Sinai full of many spectacular sights. I was reminded of Egypt’s size when we took the 11 hr bus ride to the town of Dahab. The drive was prolonged by the 6 checkpoints we had to stop at to show our passports. The security going towards Israel’s border is tight for obvious reasons but it did make for an unbearably long ride. Dahab, which means gold in Arabic, is a popular spot for hippies and backpackers and also one of the most beautiful diving spots in the world. We arrived in the morning and had breakfast at a restaurant on the beach. Directly across from us we could see the mountains of Western Saudi Arabia and personally I found it daunting to consider the lives of the villagers on the other shore. I am certain the atmosphere of Dahab with its clubs, dancing, alcohol, and young people lounging around in swimwear listening to Bob Marley would not fly in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Actually, according to my guide book, Dahab is the number one place for snorkeling in Sinai so I wasted no time renting a mask and some flippers and getting out into the sea. This was slightly trickier than I imagined because for first 100 yards you have to walk backwards amongst jagged rocks and stones in the shallow water until you reach the point where the ocean floor drops 50 or 60 ft. The way you do this is to walk almost until the edge and then you lie down in the shallow water, put your mask on and glide over the corals until you reach the edge. The sight that awaits you is truly astounding and as this was my first snorkeling experience I was completely blown away. The Red Sea is so dense and salty that it is easy to stay afloat, in fact, swimming is so effortless that it felt more like flying to my senses. When you are gliding above the reef with the ocean floor so far below you feel as if you are soaring not swimming. Of course the sea life was equally impressive and diverse with fish of all colors and types. After this experience I can easily understand how people become addicted to diving and snorkeling, as the world below is simply magical.
We spent most of the day in the water and then after dinner and a nap piled into a stifling minivan and drove to Mount Sinai at midnight. The climb takes around 3 hours and after experiencing it first hand I can honestly say it is not for the faint hearted. If this is in fact the mountain Moses climbed to receive the 10 commandments (as there is some dispute over this) than I am seriously impressed. I consider myself to be fit and healthy, but I was not expecting it to be quite so difficult. Armed with biscuits, flashlights, and cameras we began our climb with a group of Americans, Egyptians, Indians, and Israelis. Our guide started us off at a quick pace and only slowed as we passed through the Bedouin camp. We were walking here and I suddenly sensed something moving on the path beside me. Squinting through the dark I realized dozens and dozens of camels and young Bedouin men surrounded us. This was a surreal experience, as the men were dressed in galibayas, a floor length man dress, and turbans resting on their camels, looking exactly as they must have looked thousands of years ago, sitting in exactly the same spot.
We climbed and climbed with occasional water breaks but as the morning progressed the temperatures were falling and some members of the group were lagging behind. I decided to keep going because if I stopped too long or slowed down to wait I wouldn’t make it to the top for sunrise, which is the whole point of making the climb! So eventually 3 others and myself just powered ahead and tackled the 750 steps to the summit. I noticed there were much less people at the top than we had seen climbing, a testament to the difficulty of the climb I suppose that not everyone made it up. For those who did however, it was well worth it to see the amazing sunrise. Actually, Rhiannon, Maandi, and I nearly missed it altogether because we were wrapped up in a blanket on the ledge of the mountain half-asleep. Thankfully, Chris shook us awake in time to take the pictures and to marvel and the beauty around us. I have decided that Moses was not in fact up there praying for as long as the bible tells us, rather it took him so long to make the climb and he was too embarrassed to tell the Israelites he had struggled to carry the tablets down!
When we finally returned from the mountain back to Dahab everyone was exhausted. The rest of the day was spent sleeping and we only ventured out at night for a seafood dinner and then back to bed. The next day I decided go with Maa’ndi to Sharm al Sheikh where he was visiting his father. The Egyptians are incredibly proud of Sharm and its hundreds of hotels and shopping malls. Because it is something like a mini Las Vegas to them they want to present it to the rest of the world as a mark of development and progress. Personally, after the peace and quiet of Dahab I would probably not choose Sharm as a vacation destination. It is not like Egypt to me, rather it is a place for foreigners to party hard, lounge at the beach, and pay exorbitant prices for food and cheap souvenirs. I did enjoy my time there though because Ma’andi’s family was so generous and treated me like a V.I.P the whole time! On the second morning we went on a desert safari. Before sunrise we took 4 wheelers out into the desert and drove around for a couple hours. It was a great feeling to just cruise around and once again we stopped in a Bedouin camp for some tea and to watch the sunrise. The desert is a spectacular sight and every time I look across it I experience a mixture of fear and wonder considering how expansive and desolate a place it is.
On the bus ride home, slightly sun burned and tired, I reflected on the trip and Egypt and just how much this country has to offer. The places to see and variety of things to do are just endless. Next stop Alexandria… my time is running out!
Actually, according to my guide book, Dahab is the number one place for snorkeling in Sinai so I wasted no time renting a mask and some flippers and getting out into the sea. This was slightly trickier than I imagined because for first 100 yards you have to walk backwards amongst jagged rocks and stones in the shallow water until you reach the point where the ocean floor drops 50 or 60 ft. The way you do this is to walk almost until the edge and then you lie down in the shallow water, put your mask on and glide over the corals until you reach the edge. The sight that awaits you is truly astounding and as this was my first snorkeling experience I was completely blown away. The Red Sea is so dense and salty that it is easy to stay afloat, in fact, swimming is so effortless that it felt more like flying to my senses. When you are gliding above the reef with the ocean floor so far below you feel as if you are soaring not swimming. Of course the sea life was equally impressive and diverse with fish of all colors and types. After this experience I can easily understand how people become addicted to diving and snorkeling, as the world below is simply magical.
We spent most of the day in the water and then after dinner and a nap piled into a stifling minivan and drove to Mount Sinai at midnight. The climb takes around 3 hours and after experiencing it first hand I can honestly say it is not for the faint hearted. If this is in fact the mountain Moses climbed to receive the 10 commandments (as there is some dispute over this) than I am seriously impressed. I consider myself to be fit and healthy, but I was not expecting it to be quite so difficult. Armed with biscuits, flashlights, and cameras we began our climb with a group of Americans, Egyptians, Indians, and Israelis. Our guide started us off at a quick pace and only slowed as we passed through the Bedouin camp. We were walking here and I suddenly sensed something moving on the path beside me. Squinting through the dark I realized dozens and dozens of camels and young Bedouin men surrounded us. This was a surreal experience, as the men were dressed in galibayas, a floor length man dress, and turbans resting on their camels, looking exactly as they must have looked thousands of years ago, sitting in exactly the same spot.
We climbed and climbed with occasional water breaks but as the morning progressed the temperatures were falling and some members of the group were lagging behind. I decided to keep going because if I stopped too long or slowed down to wait I wouldn’t make it to the top for sunrise, which is the whole point of making the climb! So eventually 3 others and myself just powered ahead and tackled the 750 steps to the summit. I noticed there were much less people at the top than we had seen climbing, a testament to the difficulty of the climb I suppose that not everyone made it up. For those who did however, it was well worth it to see the amazing sunrise. Actually, Rhiannon, Maandi, and I nearly missed it altogether because we were wrapped up in a blanket on the ledge of the mountain half-asleep. Thankfully, Chris shook us awake in time to take the pictures and to marvel and the beauty around us. I have decided that Moses was not in fact up there praying for as long as the bible tells us, rather it took him so long to make the climb and he was too embarrassed to tell the Israelites he had struggled to carry the tablets down!
When we finally returned from the mountain back to Dahab everyone was exhausted. The rest of the day was spent sleeping and we only ventured out at night for a seafood dinner and then back to bed. The next day I decided go with Maa’ndi to Sharm al Sheikh where he was visiting his father. The Egyptians are incredibly proud of Sharm and its hundreds of hotels and shopping malls. Because it is something like a mini Las Vegas to them they want to present it to the rest of the world as a mark of development and progress. Personally, after the peace and quiet of Dahab I would probably not choose Sharm as a vacation destination. It is not like Egypt to me, rather it is a place for foreigners to party hard, lounge at the beach, and pay exorbitant prices for food and cheap souvenirs. I did enjoy my time there though because Ma’andi’s family was so generous and treated me like a V.I.P the whole time! On the second morning we went on a desert safari. Before sunrise we took 4 wheelers out into the desert and drove around for a couple hours. It was a great feeling to just cruise around and once again we stopped in a Bedouin camp for some tea and to watch the sunrise. The desert is a spectacular sight and every time I look across it I experience a mixture of fear and wonder considering how expansive and desolate a place it is.
On the bus ride home, slightly sun burned and tired, I reflected on the trip and Egypt and just how much this country has to offer. The places to see and variety of things to do are just endless. Next stop Alexandria… my time is running out!
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Interesting Article in the Times
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/07/17/world/africa/17traffic.html?_r=1&hp&oref=slogin
I just read this article in the NY Times online this morning and I feel that it relates to many of the issues in Egyptian society that I have been attempting to convey in my blog. Also, I can personally attest to the validity of this reporters statements as there have been many times I've counted my blessings when crossing the street or riding in a cab. In this city where chaos abounds somehow people manage to get by and once you learn about the "system," or the rhythm, living here becomes much more comfortable.
I just read this article in the NY Times online this morning and I feel that it relates to many of the issues in Egyptian society that I have been attempting to convey in my blog. Also, I can personally attest to the validity of this reporters statements as there have been many times I've counted my blessings when crossing the street or riding in a cab. In this city where chaos abounds somehow people manage to get by and once you learn about the "system," or the rhythm, living here becomes much more comfortable.
1/2 way
I am officially past the halfway point of my time in this wonderful city. It is one of those strange feelings where time has passed so quickly yet so much has taken place and I have gone through many ordeals since I first met Ma'andi in Cairo airport. I think for this reason I did not feel guilty about spending last week just socializing instead of site seeing. I know I have much more to see here before I leave but I find that with an expanding network of friends there are various events going on most nights. In fact last week I had my first experience of a Cairo Night club that bears the unfortunate name of "Latex". Any other place in the world I would automatically think gay-bar but I heard it from good sources that this was THE club to go to in Cairo. The group we met there was possibly the most multi-national mix you can imagine, including a Nigerian, an Australian, a Pakistani, an Estonian, a Bangladeshi, an Indian, two Germans, and two Americans. All of them came to Cairo for internships originally and some already completed this and are planning to find permanent positions now. In some ways I felt marginally guilty for being with just foreigners, after all I am in Egypt to experience Middle East culture, but I am also getting something from each of these people too, considering they have such varied backgrounds. After an hour or so I realized that the club was only attended by ex-pats and tourists as most Egyptians were not allowed into the club unless they paid an extra fee/bribe. We stayed dancing until 4 am before my feet became unbearably sore and we decided to call it a night. I have learnt that there are common characteristics between people who travel and work abroad, particularly in a place like Egypt. They tend to be incredibly friendly, outgoing, spontaneous, and interesting. Ultimately this is because those who are willing to take risks and roll with the punches are best suited to the unpredictable and unexpected occurrences here, of which there are many!
A few nights later, Noora, another friend, invited us to a Mohammed Moneer concert at the Opera House. Apparently this guy is an extremely well known singer that many fondly acknowledge as "the King" of Egyptian music. I am not familiar with his music yet I thought it might be interesting to see what goes on at a concert in Cairo, so we agreed to join her. The Cairo Opera House has many different stages and theatres and was recently built in a joint venture between the Egyptian government and Japan. The complex is impressive and modern, but in true Egyptian style we arrived to find there were no public toilets open! After making our way through the mostly male crowd towards the stage we proceeded to wait for quite some time, again in true Egyptian style the concert that was due to start at 930pm did not get underway until 1130. When he did finally make an appearance the crowd went wild, jumping and climbing onto each other's shoulders to get a better look. I was slightly shocked by his appearance as he was a middle aged man with an afro wearing a white shirt unbuttoned halfway. Somehow he did not seem that "Egyptian" to me but this is another perfect example of the contradictions in this society. Although it is mostly conservative there are also subcultures of liberally minded people who accept a self-professed hippie like Moneer and who stay out late dancing and singing, women and men together. In general it was similar to any concert in the US or England and he was accompanied by an excellent band whose talents I could appreciate even though I was unfamiliar with the songs.
I have come to feel at home in this place and it will be difficult in August to say goodbye to everyone, but I will leave with some amazing memories. Also, something worth mentioning is that I now realize my interest in this region of the world is not purely conceptual. I talked for a long time about wanting to travel so I could immerse myself in a new culture and learn more about the politics and issues of the Middle East. Now I can say after this experience that I have only piqued my curiosity to discover more and to explore further the maze of relationships, which have placed the West at odds with the Middle East and Islam. This summer is just the tip of the iceberg I believe and I see a role for myself in the future to bridge the divide between these competing ideas and cultures. It has been a chance to test myself and consequently I have learned more about my capabilities and hopes for the future.
A few nights later, Noora, another friend, invited us to a Mohammed Moneer concert at the Opera House. Apparently this guy is an extremely well known singer that many fondly acknowledge as "the King" of Egyptian music. I am not familiar with his music yet I thought it might be interesting to see what goes on at a concert in Cairo, so we agreed to join her. The Cairo Opera House has many different stages and theatres and was recently built in a joint venture between the Egyptian government and Japan. The complex is impressive and modern, but in true Egyptian style we arrived to find there were no public toilets open! After making our way through the mostly male crowd towards the stage we proceeded to wait for quite some time, again in true Egyptian style the concert that was due to start at 930pm did not get underway until 1130. When he did finally make an appearance the crowd went wild, jumping and climbing onto each other's shoulders to get a better look. I was slightly shocked by his appearance as he was a middle aged man with an afro wearing a white shirt unbuttoned halfway. Somehow he did not seem that "Egyptian" to me but this is another perfect example of the contradictions in this society. Although it is mostly conservative there are also subcultures of liberally minded people who accept a self-professed hippie like Moneer and who stay out late dancing and singing, women and men together. In general it was similar to any concert in the US or England and he was accompanied by an excellent band whose talents I could appreciate even though I was unfamiliar with the songs.
I have come to feel at home in this place and it will be difficult in August to say goodbye to everyone, but I will leave with some amazing memories. Also, something worth mentioning is that I now realize my interest in this region of the world is not purely conceptual. I talked for a long time about wanting to travel so I could immerse myself in a new culture and learn more about the politics and issues of the Middle East. Now I can say after this experience that I have only piqued my curiosity to discover more and to explore further the maze of relationships, which have placed the West at odds with the Middle East and Islam. This summer is just the tip of the iceberg I believe and I see a role for myself in the future to bridge the divide between these competing ideas and cultures. It has been a chance to test myself and consequently I have learned more about my capabilities and hopes for the future.
Friday, July 6, 2007
Observations
Just some thoughts from this week:
1. Heliopolis (where I live) is sooo far from everywhere!
2. Fatima, my host mother, has a cunning plan to stop me from leaving Cairo, which is to fatten me up so much that I will not be able to fit in the airplane seat going back.
3. Cairo is at its best between 11pm and 3am.
4. Hosny Mubarak (the Egpytian President) will forever look about 55 with dark black hair and sunglasses, even though he is really 78yrs old and greying. (This is how he is shown on the Ministry of Social Solidarity!) p.s. what do they do in there?!
5. Egyptians love to talk about the 1973 war against Israel and how it has been omitted from some history books in the West
6. I now know what it is like to be a goldfish in a bowl. Try using any public transport/walking anywhere in Cairo as a foreign woman.
7. My digestive tract will never be the same again
8. My feet wil never be the same again after all the mosquito bites and literally being burnt from underneath because of the hot cement. No joke, my sandals got so hot today just walking on the street that I have blisters.
9. Egyptian red wine = not great
10. Journalism is becoming an appealing career option. Travel the world and write about what you see...what a life.
Work this week was fairly non existent because I have finished the franchise package and given it to Mr. Mamoun to review. He was vacationing this past week and left without giving me a new project, hence I have finished two books this week. "Reading Lolita in Tehran" by Azar Nafisi and "Veronica Decides to Die" by Paul Coelho. I have also started researching for an article about the political clout of the EU versus the U.S. and what the future holds for both in light of their past actions and the imminent leadership transitions.
Akanksha and I managed to fit in a few social events into our evenings this past week, which is no mean feat considering the ordeal required to get from home to downtown. This trip requires a cab to the metro (dispute over the fare) and then the metro to downtown (ignore the constant staring/impossible to find the cabin for women only) and then a cab to wherever (another debate about the fare). Plus, getting back is tricky as it is not advisable to take most public transport after 11pm, right at the time most events are starting here, but also after the curfew for Egyptian girls. However, there was a 4th of July party with Americans, Egyptians, Aussies, and Indians. No fireworks, but we had burgers and apple pie and beer! Also we made it to Cairo Jazz Club one night which was a real treat. The group playing was not pure/blues jazz persay but the singer had a nice voice and it was a change of scene from the usual coffeehouse and sheesha. The crowd was about half Caireans and half foreigners and at one point there were even a few people dancing and swaying to the music. I do feel most of the places I've been socializing lately have been in more traditional, subdued, Egyptian settings. By this I mean to say there are few women, especially unveiled ones, no alcohol, and certainly no dancing. So, there was something comforting about being in this atmosphere with young people in varied attire, chatting and having a drink or two. It is one of the few places that I have been able to blend in and this was relaxing in a strange way, something more familiar. Not that I would trade where I am for anything, this is a phenomenal experience, but I do at times need a freer, more contemporary atmosphere and a glass of wine!
1. Heliopolis (where I live) is sooo far from everywhere!
2. Fatima, my host mother, has a cunning plan to stop me from leaving Cairo, which is to fatten me up so much that I will not be able to fit in the airplane seat going back.
3. Cairo is at its best between 11pm and 3am.
4. Hosny Mubarak (the Egpytian President) will forever look about 55 with dark black hair and sunglasses, even though he is really 78yrs old and greying. (This is how he is shown on the Ministry of Social Solidarity!) p.s. what do they do in there?!
5. Egyptians love to talk about the 1973 war against Israel and how it has been omitted from some history books in the West
6. I now know what it is like to be a goldfish in a bowl. Try using any public transport/walking anywhere in Cairo as a foreign woman.
7. My digestive tract will never be the same again
8. My feet wil never be the same again after all the mosquito bites and literally being burnt from underneath because of the hot cement. No joke, my sandals got so hot today just walking on the street that I have blisters.
9. Egyptian red wine = not great
10. Journalism is becoming an appealing career option. Travel the world and write about what you see...what a life.
Work this week was fairly non existent because I have finished the franchise package and given it to Mr. Mamoun to review. He was vacationing this past week and left without giving me a new project, hence I have finished two books this week. "Reading Lolita in Tehran" by Azar Nafisi and "Veronica Decides to Die" by Paul Coelho. I have also started researching for an article about the political clout of the EU versus the U.S. and what the future holds for both in light of their past actions and the imminent leadership transitions.
Akanksha and I managed to fit in a few social events into our evenings this past week, which is no mean feat considering the ordeal required to get from home to downtown. This trip requires a cab to the metro (dispute over the fare) and then the metro to downtown (ignore the constant staring/impossible to find the cabin for women only) and then a cab to wherever (another debate about the fare). Plus, getting back is tricky as it is not advisable to take most public transport after 11pm, right at the time most events are starting here, but also after the curfew for Egyptian girls. However, there was a 4th of July party with Americans, Egyptians, Aussies, and Indians. No fireworks, but we had burgers and apple pie and beer! Also we made it to Cairo Jazz Club one night which was a real treat. The group playing was not pure/blues jazz persay but the singer had a nice voice and it was a change of scene from the usual coffeehouse and sheesha. The crowd was about half Caireans and half foreigners and at one point there were even a few people dancing and swaying to the music. I do feel most of the places I've been socializing lately have been in more traditional, subdued, Egyptian settings. By this I mean to say there are few women, especially unveiled ones, no alcohol, and certainly no dancing. So, there was something comforting about being in this atmosphere with young people in varied attire, chatting and having a drink or two. It is one of the few places that I have been able to blend in and this was relaxing in a strange way, something more familiar. Not that I would trade where I am for anything, this is a phenomenal experience, but I do at times need a freer, more contemporary atmosphere and a glass of wine!
Monday, July 2, 2007
"Baba Gat Mos"
It has not been long since my last post but the past 48 hrs have included some interesting events I feel compelled to comment on; although, I am uncertain whether I should put this in my blog or not. Some of these instances bring up some controversial topics. Either way, on Friday we left for a resort town on the Red Sea. A Cairo AIESECer, Omar, has family friends with a villa there so 11 of us, half Egyptians and half foreigners/interns, piled into two cars and made our way to the coast. In fact the original plan had been to leave at 9pm in time to barbeque and relax, but this turned into 11pm and then 1am... Honestly, it didn't matter to me at all because I have adjusted to the late schedule, yet this event serves as a prime example of "Egyptian time". The schedule here is much more flexible and you learn that when someone says 10am they probably mean a couple hours later depending on the traffic, the weather, and how they feel! Needless to say we needed food for our BBQ so after we met around 1030pm we still had to fight the crowds as everyone and their brother was in the local supermarket. Another hour or so later and we emerged with burgers, hotdogs, watermelon, and a soccer ball ready to start our journey. Of course, leaving Cairo inevitably includes traffic jams at every single junction and so our drive was significantly longer.
We arrived at the villa around 3am with everyone wide awake and starving. Grilling began and we sat around outside enjoying the quiet, cool evening. The eating over we walked out to the beach and talked until the sun came up about culture, AIESEC, and religion. We manged to cover some serious controversies in our discussion including Israel and Palestine, women and the veil, and Christianity and Islam. There were bound to be some contentious points as we were a group of Muslims and Christians, males and females, and Arabs and Americans. In particular, "us" foreign women were questioning the prescence of the veil in Egyptian society and assessing the stance of male Muslims, many of whom have mothers or sisters who wear the veil. It was suggested by someone that perhaps most girls wear the veil simply because it is the norm and it is easier to conform with the rest of their friends than to be singled out for exposing oneself. There is definitely a debate to be had over how much pressure comes from Islam and how much is purely societal. Each person had a slightly different perspective for each of these issues and even though no one's opinions was altered dramatically we agreed that each of us can learn from the other. The discussion would have been enhanced if we had a Muslim woman to speak with as opinions divided clearly between the men and the women, and the Egyptians and the foreigners, but I hope to have this chance in the future.
The next day at the beach provided an interesting situation related to our discussion and it is the inspiration for my post's title, which literally means "Dad brought bananas." It is a slang expression that people here use for an awkward situation or moment. Nothing could be more awkward than our experience at the beach the next day. Rhiannon, Coline, Akanksha, and Cathleen were the girls of the group and are respectively American, French, Indian, and American. So, generally we go to the beach to swim and sun ourselves. When we arrived there and looked out across the crowd I realized that a) there were only men in the sea and b) that all of the women were sitting on the beach completely covered. "Baba gat mos" There was even a family of burqa clad women sitting nearby with 5 women head to toe in black. I have to say they were as strange a sight to us as we were to them! We stood there for a while weighing up the situation and then decided that it was a public beach afterall and we had gone there to swim so we might aswell just go for it. It must have been quite a picture though. Under one umbrella the women are shrouded in black with only their eyes visible and 50 ft to the left there are 5 girls in bikinis and swimsuits tanning.
Our day at the beach was not long enough and in July I hope to go to the North Coast and Alexandria to visit the Mediterranean for 3 or 4 days. The chemistry of this group was really dynamic though, and I left with a feeling that I had gained more than just a tan from our short trip. We had to leave that night in order to get everyone back for work on Sunday. I am unusual as my weekend is Saturday and Sunday but everyone else is off on Friday and Saturday according to the Islamic calendar. It was a fabulous weekend rounded off with a warm reception and a meal from Fatima, my host mother, who was on holiday last week. She returned bearing gifts for Akanksha and I, some shell necklaces and bracelets and of course tons of food! Some of which was delicious such as the sweet, coconut desert called fiteer with lots of raisins and dates on a flaky pastry. Other dishes, for example chicken livers are not so appealing to me, but I will try anything once!
We arrived at the villa around 3am with everyone wide awake and starving. Grilling began and we sat around outside enjoying the quiet, cool evening. The eating over we walked out to the beach and talked until the sun came up about culture, AIESEC, and religion. We manged to cover some serious controversies in our discussion including Israel and Palestine, women and the veil, and Christianity and Islam. There were bound to be some contentious points as we were a group of Muslims and Christians, males and females, and Arabs and Americans. In particular, "us" foreign women were questioning the prescence of the veil in Egyptian society and assessing the stance of male Muslims, many of whom have mothers or sisters who wear the veil. It was suggested by someone that perhaps most girls wear the veil simply because it is the norm and it is easier to conform with the rest of their friends than to be singled out for exposing oneself. There is definitely a debate to be had over how much pressure comes from Islam and how much is purely societal. Each person had a slightly different perspective for each of these issues and even though no one's opinions was altered dramatically we agreed that each of us can learn from the other. The discussion would have been enhanced if we had a Muslim woman to speak with as opinions divided clearly between the men and the women, and the Egyptians and the foreigners, but I hope to have this chance in the future.
The next day at the beach provided an interesting situation related to our discussion and it is the inspiration for my post's title, which literally means "Dad brought bananas." It is a slang expression that people here use for an awkward situation or moment. Nothing could be more awkward than our experience at the beach the next day. Rhiannon, Coline, Akanksha, and Cathleen were the girls of the group and are respectively American, French, Indian, and American. So, generally we go to the beach to swim and sun ourselves. When we arrived there and looked out across the crowd I realized that a) there were only men in the sea and b) that all of the women were sitting on the beach completely covered. "Baba gat mos" There was even a family of burqa clad women sitting nearby with 5 women head to toe in black. I have to say they were as strange a sight to us as we were to them! We stood there for a while weighing up the situation and then decided that it was a public beach afterall and we had gone there to swim so we might aswell just go for it. It must have been quite a picture though. Under one umbrella the women are shrouded in black with only their eyes visible and 50 ft to the left there are 5 girls in bikinis and swimsuits tanning.
Our day at the beach was not long enough and in July I hope to go to the North Coast and Alexandria to visit the Mediterranean for 3 or 4 days. The chemistry of this group was really dynamic though, and I left with a feeling that I had gained more than just a tan from our short trip. We had to leave that night in order to get everyone back for work on Sunday. I am unusual as my weekend is Saturday and Sunday but everyone else is off on Friday and Saturday according to the Islamic calendar. It was a fabulous weekend rounded off with a warm reception and a meal from Fatima, my host mother, who was on holiday last week. She returned bearing gifts for Akanksha and I, some shell necklaces and bracelets and of course tons of food! Some of which was delicious such as the sweet, coconut desert called fiteer with lots of raisins and dates on a flaky pastry. Other dishes, for example chicken livers are not so appealing to me, but I will try anything once!
Friday, June 29, 2007
There is a ring in my fuul
I just have time for a quick update before I leave for "Ein Sokna" a small town on the coast of the Red Sea.The AIESEC group are going to take us tonight so we can spend tomorrow at the beach relaxing. I have had a great week since the Luxor trip, spending a lot of time up late in the cafes with friends. However, the least enjoyable moment of this past week relates to the title of this post. "Us" foreigners do have to be careful with what foods we eat here as our stomachs are not as strong as the locals. However, fuul (the national dish of fava beans in a pita style bread) is something I eat regulary and quite enjoy as it is lighter and less risky than some other foods here. Nonetheless, this week while eating my fuul in the office I happened to bite down on a ring. Yes, a ring! Needless to say I did not eat much else that day and the incident left me feeling a little bit ill, but it does make me chuckle now. My coworkers response was "try again... maybe you'll get a bracelet!"
The temperature this week has been high and the air conditioning units across the city are working overtime to compensate so the electricity has been cutting out in the office on a daily basis. Usually around 2 or 3 in the afternoon it will flicker and then go out for a while then eventually it returns. An added bonus to this predicament was that yesterday the electricians came to do some major repair work and they cut off the power for most of the day. So, instead of working I went with Miriam and Mahmoud to Coptic Cairo, or Old Cairo, to see some of the oldest churches in the city. This was a wonderful, unexpected outing and we toured 4 or 5 of the main churches including The Hanging (Muallaqa), Abu Sergah, Mar Guirguis, the Coptic Museum, and Ben Ezra Synagogue. Miriam did her best to explain some of the history to me, but there was some struggle due to language so I will need to go online to read in more detail about the places we visited.
I did gather some information though including that Coptic Christians refers only to Egyptians, not any other nationality, and this group established many monasteries throughout the region from the 2nd to the 7th century. Basically, their dominance was between the Pharonic and the Islamic periods and their churches and artifacts reveal that they were excellent weavers and artisans. The Hanging Church gets its name because it was built over a Roman Fortress and it appears to be literally hanging in the air. Parts of the church have no foundation and are only held up by pillars. It has a magnificent arc like ceiling said to represent Noah and the arc and 7 exquisite alters built with bone and ivory. Beyond this is Abu Sergah Church, which was built on the site where the Holy Family was supposed to have rested during their exile in Egypt. And finally the Ben Ezra synagogue is still standing and is believed to be the site where baby Moses was found in this basket. So, it was obviously a really special tour of some incredibly significant places.
Miriam was really pleased to show me this area of the city and we plan to go back for mass on an upcoming weekend. I think for Mahmoud, a Muslim, it was an interesting experience as he has little background in Christianity and the history from this time. He said they were not taught much about Christianity in school and so I enjoyed filling him in on some important people and events. This really satisfying day was topped off with a visit to the Cultural Wheel, a center for music and the arts in Zamalek. An Iraqi lute player was performing some famous Egyptican songs and so we banded a group together and made it but not in time for seats as the place was packed. The music was truly oriental and performed to the highest standard as I observed from the crowds reaction, they loved it and as we left my friends commented that this was a really great show. It was difficult for me to judge how his playing compares, but I hope to catch some more shows before I leave.
For now I am going to pack up my stuff and go meet the group back at City Stars. Got to get some food for the BBQ at the beach! I was there all day hosting at the restaurant, which is extremely boring to be honest, but I was told today that my Arabic has improved in the past few weeks. This made my day and I realize I shouldn't complain about hosting as it is the time spent talking with the other staff that helps me expand my vocabulary. Looking forward to the coast and the cooler weather... even if it is only for 24 hrs.
The temperature this week has been high and the air conditioning units across the city are working overtime to compensate so the electricity has been cutting out in the office on a daily basis. Usually around 2 or 3 in the afternoon it will flicker and then go out for a while then eventually it returns. An added bonus to this predicament was that yesterday the electricians came to do some major repair work and they cut off the power for most of the day. So, instead of working I went with Miriam and Mahmoud to Coptic Cairo, or Old Cairo, to see some of the oldest churches in the city. This was a wonderful, unexpected outing and we toured 4 or 5 of the main churches including The Hanging (Muallaqa), Abu Sergah, Mar Guirguis, the Coptic Museum, and Ben Ezra Synagogue. Miriam did her best to explain some of the history to me, but there was some struggle due to language so I will need to go online to read in more detail about the places we visited.
I did gather some information though including that Coptic Christians refers only to Egyptians, not any other nationality, and this group established many monasteries throughout the region from the 2nd to the 7th century. Basically, their dominance was between the Pharonic and the Islamic periods and their churches and artifacts reveal that they were excellent weavers and artisans. The Hanging Church gets its name because it was built over a Roman Fortress and it appears to be literally hanging in the air. Parts of the church have no foundation and are only held up by pillars. It has a magnificent arc like ceiling said to represent Noah and the arc and 7 exquisite alters built with bone and ivory. Beyond this is Abu Sergah Church, which was built on the site where the Holy Family was supposed to have rested during their exile in Egypt. And finally the Ben Ezra synagogue is still standing and is believed to be the site where baby Moses was found in this basket. So, it was obviously a really special tour of some incredibly significant places.
Miriam was really pleased to show me this area of the city and we plan to go back for mass on an upcoming weekend. I think for Mahmoud, a Muslim, it was an interesting experience as he has little background in Christianity and the history from this time. He said they were not taught much about Christianity in school and so I enjoyed filling him in on some important people and events. This really satisfying day was topped off with a visit to the Cultural Wheel, a center for music and the arts in Zamalek. An Iraqi lute player was performing some famous Egyptican songs and so we banded a group together and made it but not in time for seats as the place was packed. The music was truly oriental and performed to the highest standard as I observed from the crowds reaction, they loved it and as we left my friends commented that this was a really great show. It was difficult for me to judge how his playing compares, but I hope to catch some more shows before I leave.
For now I am going to pack up my stuff and go meet the group back at City Stars. Got to get some food for the BBQ at the beach! I was there all day hosting at the restaurant, which is extremely boring to be honest, but I was told today that my Arabic has improved in the past few weeks. This made my day and I realize I shouldn't complain about hosting as it is the time spent talking with the other staff that helps me expand my vocabulary. Looking forward to the coast and the cooler weather... even if it is only for 24 hrs.
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
More pictures
1. Akaksha and Rhiannon on our way to visit the tombs
2. Hatshepsut Temple
3. The contrast between the green, fertile land and the desert is striking
4.Taking the felucca to Banana Island at sunset
5. Bananas with flower still attached
Pictures from Luxor
1. Hypostyle Hall at Karnak Temple
2. Karnak Temple
3. Roman graffiti
4. Luxor Temple-Ramses I?
5. Valley of the Kings
Monday, June 25, 2007
Enduring Luxor
This past weekend I ventured down to Luxor by train to discover the ancient gems of this sweltering city. I was traveling with Akanksha, my roomate, and Rhiannon, another American intern living in Cairo. We boarded an overnight train on Thurday and arrived early the next morning. We had been warned that the weather would be brutally hot in Luxor as it is quite far south of Cairo, actually in what is called "Upper Egypt". The Nile runs from the South to the North, so Upper Egypt is considered to be Aswan and Luxor while Cairo and Alexandria, cities in the North are known as Lower Egypt. Quite contradictory thinking! We set out to Karnak temple directly to make the most of the cooler temps and were not disappointed by this impressive site. 3000 years ago Luxor was the religious center for the Middle Kingdom and so this Temple was expanded and modified by each King during that period to show his reverence for their many gods. One of its most impressive areas is Hypostyle Hall, which is a maze of towering columns covered in Hieroglyphics. Supposedly, the area it covers would be big enough to house 12 Cathedrals. What is even more fascinating about this place is that some of the color is still preserved on the walls. I cannot imagine how it must have looked in color, breathtaking no doubt!
After a siesta and dip in the pool we reemerged in the evening to see the Luxor temple, which would have been connected to Karnak by an avenue of sphinxes back in the day. They are about 3 or 4 miles apart and now the city has been built up between them. This place is surreal because it is in the middle of the city running directly next to the main road. One minute you are in modern day Luxor, the next you are standing in an ancient ruin surrounded by statues of deities and Pharonic Kings. There is also evidence of the Roman presence shown by statues built under Alexander the Great. They even placed some of their art over the hieroglyphics in some temples, like ancient graffiti.
Saturday was devoted to the important sites on the West Bank, our hotel and the two Temples are on East Bank or the side of the living, where the sun rises. The West Bank is the land of the dead, where the sun sets, and where the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, and Hatshepsut (sp) Temple are located. For this we decided to have a tour guide and an airconditioned minivan as the sites are spread out and it would be insane to see them all without short breaks from the heat. It may seem that I am dwelling on the temperature a bit much but it was a real concern for us as it was 115 F and the threat of dehydration or sun stroke was very real! Thankfully, our guide, Aladin had a sense of humor and extensive knowledge of the area to keep our minds off the weather and focused on the living history we were viewing.
The Valley of the Queens was the burial place of Queen Nefertiti and many others including Princes and children. An interesting note is that only 80 tombs have been discovered, yet in some of the translated ancient script the Scribes wrote of more than 200 being placed in this area. So there are many undiscovered tombs containing untold treasures. The Valley of the Kings was also vast and expansive with much larger more elaborate tombs. The walls of these tombs were painted in vibrant detail and they went much further into the ground than any of the Queens. The tradition was to begin building the tomb for a King when he ascended the throne and to stop when he died. So the longer the reign the more impressive and cavernous the tomb.
Unfortuanately, by the time we visited Hatshepsut Temple everyone was feeling fatigued and tired so we just took a few pictures and jumped back into the van. Even our guide did not go into great detail about this place sensing that we were in need of rest and shade. Later in the evening we made it onto the Nile for another felucca (boat) ride to a place called Banana Island. There we ate some of the locally grown fresh fruits and watched the sunset amongst the palm trees. This was a green, fertile area, in stark contrast with the dry, barren desert that was out of the reach of the annual flood waters.
Our final day was spent in the museums where we saw mummies of Ramses I, crocodiles, cats, and also many marvelous ancient statues. The collection included ancient pieces taken from the nearby temples and tombs.
By the time we were boarding the train for Cairo I was throughly satisfied and overwhelmed by our trip. Although, I still need to process everything we saw as it is difficult to comprehend the skill and craftsmanship required to produce such longlasting, beautiful structures. A final thought is that any attempt to summarize or describe this place and its monuments inevitably cannot convey their magnificence and grandeur, but I hope I can give some sense that I am so grateful to have these opportunities to explore and to learn. Egypt is one adventure after the other!
After a siesta and dip in the pool we reemerged in the evening to see the Luxor temple, which would have been connected to Karnak by an avenue of sphinxes back in the day. They are about 3 or 4 miles apart and now the city has been built up between them. This place is surreal because it is in the middle of the city running directly next to the main road. One minute you are in modern day Luxor, the next you are standing in an ancient ruin surrounded by statues of deities and Pharonic Kings. There is also evidence of the Roman presence shown by statues built under Alexander the Great. They even placed some of their art over the hieroglyphics in some temples, like ancient graffiti.
Saturday was devoted to the important sites on the West Bank, our hotel and the two Temples are on East Bank or the side of the living, where the sun rises. The West Bank is the land of the dead, where the sun sets, and where the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, and Hatshepsut (sp) Temple are located. For this we decided to have a tour guide and an airconditioned minivan as the sites are spread out and it would be insane to see them all without short breaks from the heat. It may seem that I am dwelling on the temperature a bit much but it was a real concern for us as it was 115 F and the threat of dehydration or sun stroke was very real! Thankfully, our guide, Aladin had a sense of humor and extensive knowledge of the area to keep our minds off the weather and focused on the living history we were viewing.
The Valley of the Queens was the burial place of Queen Nefertiti and many others including Princes and children. An interesting note is that only 80 tombs have been discovered, yet in some of the translated ancient script the Scribes wrote of more than 200 being placed in this area. So there are many undiscovered tombs containing untold treasures. The Valley of the Kings was also vast and expansive with much larger more elaborate tombs. The walls of these tombs were painted in vibrant detail and they went much further into the ground than any of the Queens. The tradition was to begin building the tomb for a King when he ascended the throne and to stop when he died. So the longer the reign the more impressive and cavernous the tomb.
Unfortuanately, by the time we visited Hatshepsut Temple everyone was feeling fatigued and tired so we just took a few pictures and jumped back into the van. Even our guide did not go into great detail about this place sensing that we were in need of rest and shade. Later in the evening we made it onto the Nile for another felucca (boat) ride to a place called Banana Island. There we ate some of the locally grown fresh fruits and watched the sunset amongst the palm trees. This was a green, fertile area, in stark contrast with the dry, barren desert that was out of the reach of the annual flood waters.
Our final day was spent in the museums where we saw mummies of Ramses I, crocodiles, cats, and also many marvelous ancient statues. The collection included ancient pieces taken from the nearby temples and tombs.
By the time we were boarding the train for Cairo I was throughly satisfied and overwhelmed by our trip. Although, I still need to process everything we saw as it is difficult to comprehend the skill and craftsmanship required to produce such longlasting, beautiful structures. A final thought is that any attempt to summarize or describe this place and its monuments inevitably cannot convey their magnificence and grandeur, but I hope I can give some sense that I am so grateful to have these opportunities to explore and to learn. Egypt is one adventure after the other!
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
More Pictures
PIctures in order:
Great Pyramids of Khufu and Sphinx
King Khufu's Pyramid from the 4th Pharonic Dynasty (2558-2532 BC)
This boat was used to ship the blocks for the pyramids from Luxor to Cairo. It was found buried near to the pyramids and is truly a feat of engineering considering how ancient it is and that each block weighs 2.5 tonnes each. Also, Mohamed Elmaandi, the guy in the picture, matched me to the internship here... and yes he is a crazy as he looks!
Natalie, an AIESEC intern from Germany, and myself, enjoying our first camel ride.
Pyramids under a hazy sky
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Pyramids, the pool, and pictures
Over the weekend I've finally been able to get in some site seeing. Not that I don't enjoy socializing in coffeeshops late into the night but I was beginning to feel strange about being in Cairo for so long without seeing some of its most famous places. To rectify this situation the Cairo University AIESECers planned to take a group early Saturday morning to see the pyramids and sphinx at Giza. There are quite a few other trainees here at various stages of their internships. Natalie and Coline are both here for 9 months each are are about half way through their time, they are German and French respectively. Also, there are two other Americans. Rhiannon just arrived from Illinois only a few days after me and she will be working for the summer in finance. Chris, a dual British and American citizen, has been here for about 5 months already and just extended his stay by starting a new internship in IT. Altogether, we are a very international group and the day was a real testament to AIESEC as an organization and how it facilitates friendships, understanding, and unique travel experiences.
Arriving at the pyramids, the first thing of note was how hazy the sky looked. This provoked someone to comment that everytime they have been to see the pyramids they look slightly different. The other strange realization for me was just how few tourists I have been around in the first few weeks here because I was almost shocked to see them all there. It was like role reversal as I found myself thinking how out of place and odd looking some of them seemed. I had expected it to be crowded and full of foreigners, but I was also surprised at how accustomed I've become already to being around Egyptians. I probably shouldn't say this but I was pretty annoyed to see a group of girls with tube tops and short skirts on walking around. This opens up a whole other issue about clothing and religion and society, but I just felt that it showed poor judgement on their part because it is obviously not normal to dress that way in Cairo. I'm not going to get into the debate about what is acceptable clothing and I will admit that it is really hot here and in similar temps in England or the U.S. most women wear these sorts of clothes. However, if you know that it is not common in the culture you are in to be wearing so little, and you know it will draw unecessary attention and harrassment why would you do it? The majority of women here dress modestly with long pants and skirts, long sleeves, and their hair covered. Of course there are those who dress less conservatively but they are met with stares and some passing comments from males. Don't put on a hejab or veil if it isn't something you believe in, but at least observe the environment and act accordingly.
Aside from this tangent, the pyramids themselves were everything I hoped. You cannot help but be amazed, not only by their size but by the precision and labor their construction required. It is incomprehensible that they are thousands of years old and still so intact. Equally as astounding was the ship that was excavated from a pit near to the pyramids. It was used to ship the blocks from Aswan to Cairo and when you see the size of an individual stone you just cannot believe the effort that was involved in each pyramid. The labor force that this must have required really blows me away!
While at the pyramids you just have to do the whole camel thing. Even if it is touristy and cliche I still wanted to say that I have ridden a camel. Thankfully with the Caireans there to help we could bargain with the camel people for a decent group price. This did take a great deal of negotiating but we ended up getting our monies worth as they took tons of pictures for us and gave us a long ride. I'm glad I can say I've done it, the whole camel thing, but I definitely appreciate the smoother gait of the horse. There is no way to comfortably sit to a camel's trot- it just isn't possible.
By the afternoon we were all sufficently hot and sluggish so we left the pyramids. Luckily, Natalie had the brilliant idea of going swimming and we ended up at a place called the Muhammed Ali Club. Here we swam, played some soccer, and just lounged around. This club has a nice pool, restaurant, and a beautiful deck right by the Nile. We finished off the night with a dinner of fiteer (a delicious Egyptian sort of calzone) and sheesha. Perfect end to a fabulous day.
Today I managed to get to the Museum of Antiquities, but not without a little bit of trouble. I had hoped to take a bus there but after waiting at the stop for a long time and unable to locate anything resembling a schedule I gave up and got in a taxi. Halfway there we got stuck in a traffic jam and then his car decided to break down. When it seemed that there really was no hope for his delapidated vehicle I told him I would just give him half of the agreed upon fee and go find another one. In Cairo you generally agree on a price before you get in if you are a foreigner as this limits the arguments at the other end when they try to overcharge you. We'd agreed on 20 so when I handed him a 10 he got pretty upset and insisted that I owed him the full fare. This went on for a little while longer but finally I got him to take the 10 long enough to walk away and find another ride.
The Museum itself was definitely worth the transportation hassles to get there as the collection is vast and impressive. I can't begin to go into all of the things I saw but just to mention one of the most memorable then the collection from King Tut's tomb has to rank highly. The tomb was complete when they found it so they have on display a near perfect reconstruction of the burial chamber. I could go on and on but suffice to say this was special! I am fading now and I have to get back to work tomorrow but I have posted just a few of my pics with more to come later.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
Conversing in Cairo
Since my last post I have really just been working at Optima and I still have to be there until Friday when I will go back to the restaurant to host. Actually, I do like the project I've been given for Optima right now, I think it is teaching me about more than just promotion and marketing. I say this because I am working on a franchise package/proposal for the Crocodile Grill restaurant. Mr. Mohamed wants to bring in individuals to begin expanding to other areas of Egypt and the Middle East. In fact he has an offer from someone in Dubai to open another restaurant there, but as of now he has no framework for this process. Optima has not set up any sort of guidelines that this franchise would follow and so this is my task for now. I am to put together all the information regarding the restaurant, its training values, its menu, its decor, and also to include legal agreements concenring the franchise and the development process. Now, regardless of the fact that I have no previous experience or knowledge in this area I think I am learning a great deal about initiative as the only way I can make progress with this task it to do my own research and to come up with a propsal that I think is appealing. Also, I am learning more about trademarks and the legal process for acquiring this because Crocodile Grill (CG) only has rights in Egypt and will need to be a name throughout the region in order to begin franchises elsewhere.
I feel it is somewhat relevant to explain aspects of my internship here because after all I am not just here as a tourist, this is also for my development in a career sense. Basically, I am pleased with the work I'm being given because before coming to Cairo the job description was very vague and I really had no idea what kind of set up I would find. As it is I think I will learn a great deal because Mr. Mohamed is pretty hands off with the whole company. He sat me down on the first day and said "this is what I want to do" and since then he has pretty much left me to it. In fact, yesterday I had a few questions for him and because he is always at the restaurant I had to go ask him there. I went over my questions with him and essentially he said " I don't know,,, what do you think?" So even though this kind of response is partially frustrating, I would really like some more input to make sure I am working on the right lines, but like I said it is also a good lesson for me. I will just have to come up with my own ideas and find the information on my own. Hopefully, in the long run I will produce something he can use and that is up to par with other restaurants.
On the social side aswell work is extremely fun. The people I work with have different roles and some days they have very few assigned tasks. They are working under the same loose instructions as me because Mr. Mohamed is not what you'd call a taskmaster. This is great on the one hand because they have plenty of time to just sit around and chat with each other and with me, but it also makes it difficult to stay on task. I feel that because of the strong sense of family in Egypt, many people hire their friends and family to work and then the office environment is more like a social gathering than a 9-5 workplace. Anyway, it gives me a chance to work on my Arabic, I just hope that I don't suddenly get a deadline for the package and find myself really behind!
A few nights ago I went to lunch with two of the guys from work and met some more of their friends. Like everyone, they are incredibly generous, insiting that while in Cairo I should not pay for any meals etc, which is something I would not usually accept because I do not want to feel I owe them anything. However, I am learning that in Egypt this is more than just a gesture, for example, if I was seen paying for my bill in a restaurant the people with me would be judged as bad hosts etc.
Another observation I've made is the mentality here of regular socializing. This is something I really enjoy about the culture here that I don't feel people in the US embrace enough. After work here people go to their homes or out with their friends and sit around talking for hours. No t.v. or computer games! It is really apparent because the city stays so busy until very late because people are all out with their friends. And this is not like the US version where you meet up with friends at a bar and just drink, it is conversation the whole time. Now, I'm not saying this is nonexistent in the US, but I think it is much harder to come by because we fill our days from the second we get up to the moment our head hits the pillow, and often our schedules don't include family or friend time.
Another example, would be Maandi and his friends. They finished their exams yesterday so we went to Zamalek to meet them and just sat at a coffeehouse for a few hours talking. This is such a regular occurence for them, but it left me thinking how difficult it can be to do the same thing at Cornell. During the week we work flat out morning to night with no time for breaks and then on the weekend students try to reduce their stress by drinking and sleeping, but spending time with friends one-on-one in a sober atmosphere can be hard to come by. Again, I don't want to generalize and I know there are exceptions to this, in fact, perhaps I am only saying this for my own benefit, but I am realizing now that it is incredibly easy to become so wrapped up in our own lives. In fact, with the competition, pressure, and desire to achieve I think we end up structuring our lives and schedules purely to benefit ourselves, individually. I myself find it quite hard to look outside of my studies and my future goals to the people around me sometimes. I am guilty of this myself, but I hope that this tangent did not offend or confuse anyone. I'd be glad of any comments or observations if there is confusion about what I am trying to convey as I am only thinking out loud. I am just trying to understand more the cultural differences and similarities and I find this blog to be a helpful way to hash out my ideas.
I feel it is somewhat relevant to explain aspects of my internship here because after all I am not just here as a tourist, this is also for my development in a career sense. Basically, I am pleased with the work I'm being given because before coming to Cairo the job description was very vague and I really had no idea what kind of set up I would find. As it is I think I will learn a great deal because Mr. Mohamed is pretty hands off with the whole company. He sat me down on the first day and said "this is what I want to do" and since then he has pretty much left me to it. In fact, yesterday I had a few questions for him and because he is always at the restaurant I had to go ask him there. I went over my questions with him and essentially he said " I don't know,,, what do you think?" So even though this kind of response is partially frustrating, I would really like some more input to make sure I am working on the right lines, but like I said it is also a good lesson for me. I will just have to come up with my own ideas and find the information on my own. Hopefully, in the long run I will produce something he can use and that is up to par with other restaurants.
On the social side aswell work is extremely fun. The people I work with have different roles and some days they have very few assigned tasks. They are working under the same loose instructions as me because Mr. Mohamed is not what you'd call a taskmaster. This is great on the one hand because they have plenty of time to just sit around and chat with each other and with me, but it also makes it difficult to stay on task. I feel that because of the strong sense of family in Egypt, many people hire their friends and family to work and then the office environment is more like a social gathering than a 9-5 workplace. Anyway, it gives me a chance to work on my Arabic, I just hope that I don't suddenly get a deadline for the package and find myself really behind!
A few nights ago I went to lunch with two of the guys from work and met some more of their friends. Like everyone, they are incredibly generous, insiting that while in Cairo I should not pay for any meals etc, which is something I would not usually accept because I do not want to feel I owe them anything. However, I am learning that in Egypt this is more than just a gesture, for example, if I was seen paying for my bill in a restaurant the people with me would be judged as bad hosts etc.
Another observation I've made is the mentality here of regular socializing. This is something I really enjoy about the culture here that I don't feel people in the US embrace enough. After work here people go to their homes or out with their friends and sit around talking for hours. No t.v. or computer games! It is really apparent because the city stays so busy until very late because people are all out with their friends. And this is not like the US version where you meet up with friends at a bar and just drink, it is conversation the whole time. Now, I'm not saying this is nonexistent in the US, but I think it is much harder to come by because we fill our days from the second we get up to the moment our head hits the pillow, and often our schedules don't include family or friend time.
Another example, would be Maandi and his friends. They finished their exams yesterday so we went to Zamalek to meet them and just sat at a coffeehouse for a few hours talking. This is such a regular occurence for them, but it left me thinking how difficult it can be to do the same thing at Cornell. During the week we work flat out morning to night with no time for breaks and then on the weekend students try to reduce their stress by drinking and sleeping, but spending time with friends one-on-one in a sober atmosphere can be hard to come by. Again, I don't want to generalize and I know there are exceptions to this, in fact, perhaps I am only saying this for my own benefit, but I am realizing now that it is incredibly easy to become so wrapped up in our own lives. In fact, with the competition, pressure, and desire to achieve I think we end up structuring our lives and schedules purely to benefit ourselves, individually. I myself find it quite hard to look outside of my studies and my future goals to the people around me sometimes. I am guilty of this myself, but I hope that this tangent did not offend or confuse anyone. I'd be glad of any comments or observations if there is confusion about what I am trying to convey as I am only thinking out loud. I am just trying to understand more the cultural differences and similarities and I find this blog to be a helpful way to hash out my ideas.
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Week one
I can't believe I have been here a week already. I can tell this summer is going to go so quickly as the days are so exciting and full that time flys by. Actually I am finally more adjusted to the schedule here. I might be repeating myself but because of the heat the day starts much later here and then goes on late into the night when it is cooler. This means that I don't start work until 11am and breakfast is at noon, lunch is at 7pm and dinner is like midnight. Even families are up into the early hours of the morning. For example, two days ago I went walking in a shopping district at 9pm and the streets were packed. It makes sense though when the temperature is at 106 F!
I am getting more into the work for Optima and making friends with my co-workers. The office is relatively small with Haneea, the secretary, and only 5 other employees. Today during lunch we talked mostly in Arabic and I learned more about each of them. Of course, like everyone I've met here, they want to take me to all the famous places. There was even talk of going together to Luxor ( a city further south) for the weekend! Everyone here is so willing to help visitors and so generous with their time, it is actually overwhelming because as of now I have about 5 different people offering to take me to the Giza, Coptic Cairo, and the Museum. It is great to be so popular but I'm going to have to let some of them down!
Regardless, one topic I feel I should mention is that of food and eating. I'm sure most Egpytians would not mind me saying this, and it is another example of their generosity, but every meal here is like a feast, no joke! I mean my host mother is offended I think because Akanksha and I can't ever finish her portions. However, I have been eating some great dishes including ful (fava beans mashed), grape leaves, tahini, tabbouleh, kofta, and shawerma. Also, a la Senegal, they are fond of juices, really really sweet juices. Mango, Canataloupe, watermelon, guava, which is all really fresh but reminds me of the hibiscus juice in Senegal that was unbelievably sugary.
Well I am looking forward to this week and to whatever the weekend brings. Luxor, the pyramids, old Cairo, who knows!
I am getting more into the work for Optima and making friends with my co-workers. The office is relatively small with Haneea, the secretary, and only 5 other employees. Today during lunch we talked mostly in Arabic and I learned more about each of them. Of course, like everyone I've met here, they want to take me to all the famous places. There was even talk of going together to Luxor ( a city further south) for the weekend! Everyone here is so willing to help visitors and so generous with their time, it is actually overwhelming because as of now I have about 5 different people offering to take me to the Giza, Coptic Cairo, and the Museum. It is great to be so popular but I'm going to have to let some of them down!
Regardless, one topic I feel I should mention is that of food and eating. I'm sure most Egpytians would not mind me saying this, and it is another example of their generosity, but every meal here is like a feast, no joke! I mean my host mother is offended I think because Akanksha and I can't ever finish her portions. However, I have been eating some great dishes including ful (fava beans mashed), grape leaves, tahini, tabbouleh, kofta, and shawerma. Also, a la Senegal, they are fond of juices, really really sweet juices. Mango, Canataloupe, watermelon, guava, which is all really fresh but reminds me of the hibiscus juice in Senegal that was unbelievably sugary.
Well I am looking forward to this week and to whatever the weekend brings. Luxor, the pyramids, old Cairo, who knows!
Friday, June 8, 2007
aeesh kalamat Arabiyye?
So the title of this entry sums up my experience of the last 48 hours. Me constantly asking "What is the Arabic word for...?" Seriously, I've been like a tape recorder and its also been a slightly more challenging time for me here because I spent today working as a hostess in the restaurant, Crocodile Grill. This was a helpful exercise most certainly, and one I will do fairly regularly I believe. Mohamed from Optima has proposed that I work on Fridays at the restaurant as a hostess so that I can get to know the atmosphere of the place and also to interact with the customers and staff in Arabic. I think this is a superb idea however, today was mentally pretty tiring. Firstly, Friday is like Sunday in the Middle East so most shops and restaurants are really busy and today was no exception. Secondly, the other hosts and waiters are really helpful and friendly, but they are pretty young and are easily amused when I mispronounce things. The laughter I don't mind, I would do the same, but then I want to be corrected and they don't always tell me the right way to say something. This is frustrating because if I make a mistake I want to know how to correct it, but they aren't very good with this. Like if I ask them how to conjugate a verb they tell me not to worry, about those specifics. But, I want to know! Also, they want to improve their English so again we have this back and forth when I speak Arabic they respond in English. Oh well, regardless, I think after a month or two of this I will have much better speaking skills for sure. I just have to get past the frustration with myself for not knowing more.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Optima
So today I returned to Mogahdem Tahrir to get my visa and predictably because yesterday went pretty smoothly today we had arrived and were told to come back in two hours. Basically, this means they had not even looked at the paperwork since the day before so we were to come back later when they finally stopped gossiping to each other in the office and did some work. Oh well, could have been worse and we just went to the closest cafe for some breakfast and waited for Maandi to meet us. While we waited for the visa's Akanksha, Maandi, and I ventured to a local restaurant for some Kushari, a dish consisting of brown lentils, macaroni, rice, chickpeas, fried onions, and tomato sauce. It is a traditional Egyptian meal that is essentially as many carbohydrates as you can pack into one meal. I have to say it was very tasty and flavorful but incredibly filling so I ordered the smallest portion possible and still could only eat half!
After killing time waiting we returned and finally got our visas, much relief all round. Then Maandi helped us get a cab and I went to meet my boss at his restaurant in City Stars Mall. I am lucky he is so laid back because I was a few hours later than I'd originally planned to be but he didn't seem to mind. After introducing me to a few of his employees we discussed what I will be doing for the next few months. The deal is that he opened this restaurant called Crocodile grill about 6 months ago as he has managed and set up other restaurants in the U.S. in the past. Actually, Mr. Mamoun immigrated to California when he was 20 and worked in hotel and restaurant management for multiple companies. Now, after another 20 years or so he has returned to Egypt to start some new ventures, one of which is this restaurant. Also, he has a marketing company, Optima RPM, which is where the mystery shopping comes in as he does this for U.S. companies the market products in the Middle East.
So, my jobs will be to help put together a franchise package for the restaurant and to update both the company website and the restaurant website. (By the way it is www.crocodilegrill.com if you want to check out what kind of place this is... think TGIF or Chillis.) Also, I will revise the manuals for restaurant employee and manager training, which is why I will spend some Fridays as a host in the restaurant. This is so that I can get a feel for the establishment and interact with the customers. Doing this will be great for my Arabic and also help me to know what changes need to be made. Good thing I have some experience in waitressing because at least I am accustomed to the fast pace of a restaurant. Now, I just have to interact with the customers in another language.
Later in the afternoon I went to the office of Optima and met some of the other people I will be working with over the summer. There are two women, Haneea and Miriam, who will be working with me on the franchise package and both are young and friendly. Haneea has excellent English and some really good ideas so I'm looking forward to working with her. Also, Miriam is Christian so she plans to take me to some churches with her on our weekends. I had been wondering how to find out about local churches and it appears she is my answer. Already she is planning to take me to some of the more historical churches, including one of the first built in the city. This was pretty much the extent of my first day, but I will return tomorrow to start the real work.
Also, I'm looking forward to doing something with Maandi and his friends after work tomorrow because they all have an exam and then they want to do something later to unwind. So perhaps we'll go see a movie or visit Khan Il Khalili, old Cairo. Should be great whatever it is so I'll report more later in the week.
After killing time waiting we returned and finally got our visas, much relief all round. Then Maandi helped us get a cab and I went to meet my boss at his restaurant in City Stars Mall. I am lucky he is so laid back because I was a few hours later than I'd originally planned to be but he didn't seem to mind. After introducing me to a few of his employees we discussed what I will be doing for the next few months. The deal is that he opened this restaurant called Crocodile grill about 6 months ago as he has managed and set up other restaurants in the U.S. in the past. Actually, Mr. Mamoun immigrated to California when he was 20 and worked in hotel and restaurant management for multiple companies. Now, after another 20 years or so he has returned to Egypt to start some new ventures, one of which is this restaurant. Also, he has a marketing company, Optima RPM, which is where the mystery shopping comes in as he does this for U.S. companies the market products in the Middle East.
So, my jobs will be to help put together a franchise package for the restaurant and to update both the company website and the restaurant website. (By the way it is www.crocodilegrill.com if you want to check out what kind of place this is... think TGIF or Chillis.) Also, I will revise the manuals for restaurant employee and manager training, which is why I will spend some Fridays as a host in the restaurant. This is so that I can get a feel for the establishment and interact with the customers. Doing this will be great for my Arabic and also help me to know what changes need to be made. Good thing I have some experience in waitressing because at least I am accustomed to the fast pace of a restaurant. Now, I just have to interact with the customers in another language.
Later in the afternoon I went to the office of Optima and met some of the other people I will be working with over the summer. There are two women, Haneea and Miriam, who will be working with me on the franchise package and both are young and friendly. Haneea has excellent English and some really good ideas so I'm looking forward to working with her. Also, Miriam is Christian so she plans to take me to some churches with her on our weekends. I had been wondering how to find out about local churches and it appears she is my answer. Already she is planning to take me to some of the more historical churches, including one of the first built in the city. This was pretty much the extent of my first day, but I will return tomorrow to start the real work.
Also, I'm looking forward to doing something with Maandi and his friends after work tomorrow because they all have an exam and then they want to do something later to unwind. So perhaps we'll go see a movie or visit Khan Il Khalili, old Cairo. Should be great whatever it is so I'll report more later in the week.
Tuesday, June 5, 2007
Short but sweet.
So this post may be a little bit brief, but I have to be up early tomorrow to return to Mogadem Tahrir to pick up my visa. That was the most important thing I did today, filling out the paperwork for my tourist visa. Basically, my host family is amazing and so Younis's fiancee, Noora, picked us up and took us to Mogadem Tahrir. This is a huge, Soviet style building with many floors and hallways, but few signs. We made our way to the correct floor and muddled through the paperwork. I kept trying to speak Arabic to the employees but most of them responed in English. However, I did find one nice man at the photocopy machine who listened while I slowly explained in Arabic that yes, I am American, but I lived in England. We had a chat about Tony Blair and I left feeling pleased that I finally was allowed to use my Arabic. I am discovering that most of what I've been taught is more similar to Lebanese Arabic, which means I am learning the Egyptian slang and words as I go. It is all pretty confusing as they have many different words and phrases that don't sound similar to the more formal Arabic that I've been learning.
Nevermind, because we found a nice cafe to relax in afterwards and we were sheltered from the afternoon heat for a while. Today was really hot, even for the locals who say we're having a small heatwave. It isn't such a problem though because of the younger people don't do too much during the day, but they come alive at night and stay up really late as it is cooler then. Most people here are up until 1 or 2 in the morning even if they have work the next day. This city really doesn't stop as I am realizing!
For the evening we had dinner at a fun restaurant. Here you can eat and also paint ceramics at the same time. You choose a figure, paint it, and then return in a few days after they fire it in a kiln. This was a nice way to spend the rest of the day as we were joined by some of Younis's friends who chatted to us about Cairo and advised on the best things to do and see.
So, as I said before I am up tomorrow to pick up my visa and then I will start work in the afternoon. I'm interested to see what Mohamed has in store for me, lots of mystery shopping hopefully! More updates later in the week.
Nevermind, because we found a nice cafe to relax in afterwards and we were sheltered from the afternoon heat for a while. Today was really hot, even for the locals who say we're having a small heatwave. It isn't such a problem though because of the younger people don't do too much during the day, but they come alive at night and stay up really late as it is cooler then. Most people here are up until 1 or 2 in the morning even if they have work the next day. This city really doesn't stop as I am realizing!
For the evening we had dinner at a fun restaurant. Here you can eat and also paint ceramics at the same time. You choose a figure, paint it, and then return in a few days after they fire it in a kiln. This was a nice way to spend the rest of the day as we were joined by some of Younis's friends who chatted to us about Cairo and advised on the best things to do and see.
So, as I said before I am up tomorrow to pick up my visa and then I will start work in the afternoon. I'm interested to see what Mohamed has in store for me, lots of mystery shopping hopefully! More updates later in the week.
Monday, June 4, 2007
First day in Cairo
i just arrived yesterday in Cairo to be greeted my some very lovely and friendly AIESEC'ers. I finally met Maandi who matched me to my traineeship and it was great to thank him face to face for all the work he put in to get me here. We had a great afternoon meeting lots more of his friends and celebrating his birthday. Plus, later in the evening we took a boat, or a falukah as they are called here, out onto the Nile to view the city from the water. This was so beautiful and relaxing after a long day of traveling and the surrounding buildings were beautifully lit. The city itself is bustling and hectic and everything is open really late, but I feel fairly safe. The only real hazard I've experienced so far is crossing the street. The cars are continuous and there are few crosswalks or lights so you just "find a gap" and go!
We went to a coffeshop afterwards and smoked shisha to finish off the night and then I was taken to my new home for the next few months. I am staying at Younis's apartment in the Helipolis district with another intern. He has been so generous and his mother and sister are wonderful hosts. Also, my roomate, Akanksha, is working for a non profit group in the city and she is originally from Bombay, India. So I will have someone else to explore with, which is great news!
Today I met with the manager of the company I will be working for, Optima RPM, a marketing group. He is happy for me to start on Wednesday and so tomorrow I will go downtown to get my visa and to fill out some necessary paperwork. The company is currently working for a restaurant in the city's largest mall, City Stars. This is a huge complex with shops galore and movie theaters, the works. So, I will not have a problem shopping or finding anything, in fact, he even mentioned that part of my job will be as a "mystery shopper" who gets to try out new restaurants and stores. The added bonus is that their office is a 5 minute walk from the apartment so I won't even have to go very far to get to work. Considering how crazy public transport seems to be this could be very helpful.
Maandi then helped me to buy a phone and I returned to the apartment to find my suitcase waiting. All in all a very successful day and I've even had the time to set up this blog that I hope to update regularly. I had planned on sending one mass email at intervals however, Maandi mentioned that many AIESEC people use blogs to keep their family and friends updates so I thought I'd have one too. Of course there will also be pictures eventually, but I will probably post them on facebook.
So I am looking forward to the rest of this week and the fun that lies ahead!
We went to a coffeshop afterwards and smoked shisha to finish off the night and then I was taken to my new home for the next few months. I am staying at Younis's apartment in the Helipolis district with another intern. He has been so generous and his mother and sister are wonderful hosts. Also, my roomate, Akanksha, is working for a non profit group in the city and she is originally from Bombay, India. So I will have someone else to explore with, which is great news!
Today I met with the manager of the company I will be working for, Optima RPM, a marketing group. He is happy for me to start on Wednesday and so tomorrow I will go downtown to get my visa and to fill out some necessary paperwork. The company is currently working for a restaurant in the city's largest mall, City Stars. This is a huge complex with shops galore and movie theaters, the works. So, I will not have a problem shopping or finding anything, in fact, he even mentioned that part of my job will be as a "mystery shopper" who gets to try out new restaurants and stores. The added bonus is that their office is a 5 minute walk from the apartment so I won't even have to go very far to get to work. Considering how crazy public transport seems to be this could be very helpful.
Maandi then helped me to buy a phone and I returned to the apartment to find my suitcase waiting. All in all a very successful day and I've even had the time to set up this blog that I hope to update regularly. I had planned on sending one mass email at intervals however, Maandi mentioned that many AIESEC people use blogs to keep their family and friends updates so I thought I'd have one too. Of course there will also be pictures eventually, but I will probably post them on facebook.
So I am looking forward to the rest of this week and the fun that lies ahead!
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