Alexandria

And so after many failed attempts and change of plans Akanksha and I made it to Alexandria last weekend. It is a city we've been planning to visit all month and as it is only a couple hours north of Cairo by train it is perfect for a weekend trip. We arrived at Ramses station early Friday morning to be told that we could only buy tickets for the 2pm train as the earlier ones were all full. However, even in these situations it is acceptable to buy a ticket on board but there are no guarantees that there will be seating available. So, we wandered down the platform debating which car we should board that would hopefully have somewhere to sit.

After spotting a man in uniform I decided to ask him which car would be the least crowded. He told us that the 2nd car was our best bet and proceeded to lead us down to the end of the platform. Then he waited with us until the train arrived and insisted on helping us on with our bags. You might be thinking "Oh how nice and helpful" but actually it is common practice in public places, at tourist sites, in restrooms, basically everywhere that if anybody does anything for you, whether you ask for it or not, they expect a tip. So, of course we were obliged to tip him a couple pounds just for pointing us in the right direction. I mean he is a train station employee for goodness sake... this should really be his job.
I still find the constant tipping to be annoying as often it is for the smallest, most basic services. For example, in toilets when I don't have small enough change to tip the woman I am often met with unpleasant remarks or gestures. I've even had a toilet lady stand in the doorway of the restroom as if to block me from exiting because I had not tipped her. And seriously for what!! If I am using a restroom with no soap, no toilet paper, and a soiled floor I see no reason to tip the lady. So many of these people don't do anything very useful and still want to take your money. I find it infuriating on principle that to part with my money, no matter how small an amount, I should have gained something in return. But when it is just a case of pointing at the correct car or telling me the number I don't see why I should owe the man anything. Why can't that just be a nice thing to do... to help someone or give them directions. I often give change to homeless people too but as this is of my own volition and not forced I am much more comfortable with it.

I mean even though I am ranting about this now I do understand how and why this system exists in developing countries. Most of these people are on such meager salaries that the only way they get by is on tips. Plus, in predominately Muslim countries the obligation of alms giving is very present in society. So, if you are perceived to be wealthy you should give freely to the poor. Hence the reason so many people ask foreigners where they are from, so they can judge how wealthy you are and how much of a tip they should expect. I have taken to saying I'm from Slovenia or some other Eastern European country, not only to spare myself from the Anti-Bush/America remarks but also because they expect less of a tip. Surprisingly they are not very good with accents either as I get away with this even though I sound distinctly American!

Besides this small rant tangent the rest of the journey to Alex was uneventful and we did mange to find spare seats in an air-conditioned car. That afternoon we visited the famous Library of Alexandria which is a beautifully designed, expansive building, supposedly located on the site of the first library in the world. This impressive feat of architecture was inaugurated 5 years ago and apparently it has enough shelf space for around 8 million books! We relaxed in the cool ac until late evening when we went for a seafood dinner in local restaurant recommended to us by a friend. We were not disappointed by the food as it was well prepared and the choices were endless however, I was surprised to see a huge turtle in a bathtub in the entry way. I guess the fact that turtles are endangered does not deter Egyptians from eating them! I was half tempted to pick him up and make a run for the sea but he was huge and probably worth more money than I had on me if I was caught.

There are not many sites to see in Alex but we enjoyed sitting on the Corniche watching people. Also, as I was mid way through the last Harry Potter I had no qualms just sitting in a coffeshop reading. When it was time to return to Cairo we decided to take the slightly cheaper option of a microbus, a type of minivan that fits 12 people snugly. It was only the equivalent of $3 for the 3 hr journey but it was so cramped, hot, and uncomfortable that I doubt it is worth even that price! My discomfort was not diminished by the fact that our driver was in a foul mood and insisted on arguing with the workers at the gas station for what felt like an age. Ok maybe I'm being dramatic but it was humid as hell and my legs were somewhere up by my chest and there he was picking a fight with the guy who pumps the gas. Again though this is a fairly common sight, I see fights in the street between drivers on a daily basis. Something to do with the heat and the frequent traffic jams creates a violence prone atmosphere.

It is all just a series of experiences that amuse, annoy, please, and surprise me. I'll be taking much more with me than just Pharonic figurines when I leave Cairo in less than two weeks.