The Holy Land

My recent trip to Israel really was the icing on the cake of this summer. I didn't even plan to make this trip however when my roommate Akanksha mentioned she wanted to go I felt it was an opportunity I couldn't pass up. For obvious reasons my family and friends were concerned but after leaving many contact details and promises to email daily we boarded the bus late Thursday night and headed to Taba in Sinai. We crossed the border in Taba into Eilat and took another bus North to Jerusalem; a journey that took us along the Dead Sea. Yes, people really were floating in it reading!

After a 15-hour journey we finally arrived in the Old City at Jaffa Gate and found some beds at the Citadel Youth Hostel on St. David's St. This place is over 400 years old and has one of the best rooftop views of the Old City. In fact, you can even sleep on the roof for about $5 a night, quite a popular choice amongst young, poor travelers or pilgrims. To begin our stay and to orient us with the city we found our way to Damascus gate and the Church of the Flagellation, the site where Jesus was beaten before his crucifixion. Every day at 4 pm a group of Franciscan Monks lead a procession along the via Dolorosa past each Station of the Cross. This follows the path that Jesus was forced to take, while carrying his cross, to the site of the crucifixion. At each Station there are prayers and singing and finally the walk ends at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

There is some dispute about whether this Church was actually built on the site of the Crucifixion, as some believe the real location to be a hill just outside of the city walls. Regardless, this walk is an overwhelming display of people from all over the world, Christians and non-Christians, young and old, taking the time to relive a piece of Biblical history. The sight of so many walking through the narrow streets of Jerusalem praying and chanting was moving for me and must be a powerful sight to onlookers. I can attest to this because that same evening I found myself switching roles from worshiper to observer when we visited the Western Wall. It was a Friday night, the beginning of Shabbat or the Jewish Holy day, and we were met with an astonishing sight. The entire front of the wall and the plaza were filled with Jewish families of many nationalities in various styles of dress. I saw the long black robes, tall hats, and flowing beards of the ultra Orthodox as they rocked back and forth clutching prayer books. Interestingly, there is a barrier separating the men from the women and although this is strictly adhered to I noticed people on either side peering over to watch their relatives pray.

The next morning we took bus 124 from Jerusalem to the Bethlehem checkpoint. Here we had our first sight of the enormous concret wall dividing the West Bank from Israel. It is an imposing structure as is the security you must pass through to enter the other side. However, contrary to what we expected there were few people crossing at this time so we simply flashed our passports, passed through the metal detectors and were on our way into Palestine. For me Bethlehem was a "must see" place because of its religious significance as the birthplace of Jesus. Although I also had a strong interest in witnessing the conditions in Palestine and speaking with people there. The morning was spent visiting religious sites such as the Church of the Holy Nativity (the name speaks for itself), Milk's Grotto, Manger Square, and some Roman ruins on top of a Herodium's Mount. That afternoon, Akanksha and I walked the streets observing the people and noting the poverty. Mostly, it felt like the poorer areas of Cairo, except that the people we spoke revealed sadness and a sense of despair very different to Egyptians. This is a testament to their situation with limited job opportunities, restricted freedom of movement, and a constantly shifting political landscape. From just a few conversations I gained a better picture of the difficulties they face and unfortunately at present I don't really see a viable prospect for change.

Emboldened by our easy passage into and out of Bethlehem we decided to visit Ramallah the next day. There is in fact nothing historical there but we wanted to meet with a group called the Watch Women. This is a group of Israeli women who are against the occupation and working to promote human rights in the region. They visit the checkpoints and try to monitor the Israeli treatment of Palestinians in hopes that the soldiers will behave with less aggression under their watch. They gave us some fascinating insights into the attitudes of Israeli soldiers and the humiliating nature of the checkpoints for Palestinians. Personally, I was so glad for this opportunity because who knows how the situation may worsen in the future, but at least I can say I've seen these places with my own eyes.

For our remaining time in Jerusalem we also saw the Temple Mount, Dome of the Rock, Garden of the Tomb, and the Holocaust Museum Yad Veshem. Each place was significant and requires a more detailed account than I feel this post allows for, but it is enough to say that this city deserves the reverence it receives from each of the dominant monotheisms. In no other place in the world is the intersection between religion and daily life so strong. In fact, a man I met in the hostel, David, aptly described the city as a "thin" place where the separation between the spiritual and the physical becomes almost transparent. Jerusalem does have a 'presence' or a feeling that is recognized by the devout and the non-religious.

My four days in Israel presented once in a lifetime experiences that I will continue to dissect and ponder. It is just a shame
that at the same time my final days in Egypt are flying by.