And so after many failed attempts and change of plans Akanksha and I made it to Alexandria last weekend. It is a city we've been planning to visit all month and as it is only a couple hours north of Cairo by train it is perfect for a weekend trip. We arrived at Ramses station early Friday morning to be told that we could only buy tickets for the 2pm train as the earlier ones were all full. However, even in these situations it is acceptable to buy a ticket on board but there are no guarantees that there will be seating available. So, we wandered down the platform debating which car we should board that would hopefully have somewhere to sit.
After spotting a man in uniform I decided to ask him which car would be the least crowded. He told us that the 2nd car was our best bet and proceeded to lead us down to the end of the platform. Then he waited with us until the train arrived and insisted on helping us on with our bags. You might be thinking "Oh how nice and helpful" but actually it is common practice in public places, at tourist sites, in restrooms, basically everywhere that if anybody does anything for you, whether you ask for it or not, they expect a tip. So, of course we were obliged to tip him a couple pounds just for pointing us in the right direction. I mean he is a train station employee for goodness sake... this should really be his job.
I still find the constant tipping to be annoying as often it is for the smallest, most basic services. For example, in toilets when I don't have small enough change to tip the woman I am often met with unpleasant remarks or gestures. I've even had a toilet lady stand in the doorway of the restroom as if to block me from exiting because I had not tipped her. And seriously for what!! If I am using a restroom with no soap, no toilet paper, and a soiled floor I see no reason to tip the lady. So many of these people don't do anything very useful and still want to take your money. I find it infuriating on principle that to part with my money, no matter how small an amount, I should have gained something in return. But when it is just a case of pointing at the correct car or telling me the number I don't see why I should owe the man anything. Why can't that just be a nice thing to do... to help someone or give them directions. I often give change to homeless people too but as this is of my own volition and not forced I am much more comfortable with it.
I mean even though I am ranting about this now I do understand how and why this system exists in developing countries. Most of these people are on such meager salaries that the only way they get by is on tips. Plus, in predominately Muslim countries the obligation of alms giving is very present in society. So, if you are perceived to be wealthy you should give freely to the poor. Hence the reason so many people ask foreigners where they are from, so they can judge how wealthy you are and how much of a tip they should expect. I have taken to saying I'm from Slovenia or some other Eastern European country, not only to spare myself from the Anti-Bush/America remarks but also because they expect less of a tip. Surprisingly they are not very good with accents either as I get away with this even though I sound distinctly American!
Besides this small rant tangent the rest of the journey to Alex was uneventful and we did mange to find spare seats in an air-conditioned car. That afternoon we visited the famous Library of Alexandria which is a beautifully designed, expansive building, supposedly located on the site of the first library in the world. This impressive feat of architecture was inaugurated 5 years ago and apparently it has enough shelf space for around 8 million books! We relaxed in the cool ac until late evening when we went for a seafood dinner in local restaurant recommended to us by a friend. We were not disappointed by the food as it was well prepared and the choices were endless however, I was surprised to see a huge turtle in a bathtub in the entry way. I guess the fact that turtles are endangered does not deter Egyptians from eating them! I was half tempted to pick him up and make a run for the sea but he was huge and probably worth more money than I had on me if I was caught.
There are not many sites to see in Alex but we enjoyed sitting on the Corniche watching people. Also, as I was mid way through the last Harry Potter I had no qualms just sitting in a coffeshop reading. When it was time to return to Cairo we decided to take the slightly cheaper option of a microbus, a type of minivan that fits 12 people snugly. It was only the equivalent of $3 for the 3 hr journey but it was so cramped, hot, and uncomfortable that I doubt it is worth even that price! My discomfort was not diminished by the fact that our driver was in a foul mood and insisted on arguing with the workers at the gas station for what felt like an age. Ok maybe I'm being dramatic but it was humid as hell and my legs were somewhere up by my chest and there he was picking a fight with the guy who pumps the gas. Again though this is a fairly common sight, I see fights in the street between drivers on a daily basis. Something to do with the heat and the frequent traffic jams creates a violence prone atmosphere.
It is all just a series of experiences that amuse, annoy, please, and surprise me. I'll be taking much more with me than just Pharonic figurines when I leave Cairo in less than two weeks.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Sinai shots
1. Freezing cold waiting for sunrise
2. View from the top
3. Worth the climb for this shot
4. Mount Sinai
5. Dust bunnies in the desert
Spectacular Sinai
Just returned from a four-day trip to Sinai full of many spectacular sights. I was reminded of Egypt’s size when we took the 11 hr bus ride to the town of Dahab. The drive was prolonged by the 6 checkpoints we had to stop at to show our passports. The security going towards Israel’s border is tight for obvious reasons but it did make for an unbearably long ride. Dahab, which means gold in Arabic, is a popular spot for hippies and backpackers and also one of the most beautiful diving spots in the world. We arrived in the morning and had breakfast at a restaurant on the beach. Directly across from us we could see the mountains of Western Saudi Arabia and personally I found it daunting to consider the lives of the villagers on the other shore. I am certain the atmosphere of Dahab with its clubs, dancing, alcohol, and young people lounging around in swimwear listening to Bob Marley would not fly in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Actually, according to my guide book, Dahab is the number one place for snorkeling in Sinai so I wasted no time renting a mask and some flippers and getting out into the sea. This was slightly trickier than I imagined because for first 100 yards you have to walk backwards amongst jagged rocks and stones in the shallow water until you reach the point where the ocean floor drops 50 or 60 ft. The way you do this is to walk almost until the edge and then you lie down in the shallow water, put your mask on and glide over the corals until you reach the edge. The sight that awaits you is truly astounding and as this was my first snorkeling experience I was completely blown away. The Red Sea is so dense and salty that it is easy to stay afloat, in fact, swimming is so effortless that it felt more like flying to my senses. When you are gliding above the reef with the ocean floor so far below you feel as if you are soaring not swimming. Of course the sea life was equally impressive and diverse with fish of all colors and types. After this experience I can easily understand how people become addicted to diving and snorkeling, as the world below is simply magical.
We spent most of the day in the water and then after dinner and a nap piled into a stifling minivan and drove to Mount Sinai at midnight. The climb takes around 3 hours and after experiencing it first hand I can honestly say it is not for the faint hearted. If this is in fact the mountain Moses climbed to receive the 10 commandments (as there is some dispute over this) than I am seriously impressed. I consider myself to be fit and healthy, but I was not expecting it to be quite so difficult. Armed with biscuits, flashlights, and cameras we began our climb with a group of Americans, Egyptians, Indians, and Israelis. Our guide started us off at a quick pace and only slowed as we passed through the Bedouin camp. We were walking here and I suddenly sensed something moving on the path beside me. Squinting through the dark I realized dozens and dozens of camels and young Bedouin men surrounded us. This was a surreal experience, as the men were dressed in galibayas, a floor length man dress, and turbans resting on their camels, looking exactly as they must have looked thousands of years ago, sitting in exactly the same spot.
We climbed and climbed with occasional water breaks but as the morning progressed the temperatures were falling and some members of the group were lagging behind. I decided to keep going because if I stopped too long or slowed down to wait I wouldn’t make it to the top for sunrise, which is the whole point of making the climb! So eventually 3 others and myself just powered ahead and tackled the 750 steps to the summit. I noticed there were much less people at the top than we had seen climbing, a testament to the difficulty of the climb I suppose that not everyone made it up. For those who did however, it was well worth it to see the amazing sunrise. Actually, Rhiannon, Maandi, and I nearly missed it altogether because we were wrapped up in a blanket on the ledge of the mountain half-asleep. Thankfully, Chris shook us awake in time to take the pictures and to marvel and the beauty around us. I have decided that Moses was not in fact up there praying for as long as the bible tells us, rather it took him so long to make the climb and he was too embarrassed to tell the Israelites he had struggled to carry the tablets down!
When we finally returned from the mountain back to Dahab everyone was exhausted. The rest of the day was spent sleeping and we only ventured out at night for a seafood dinner and then back to bed. The next day I decided go with Maa’ndi to Sharm al Sheikh where he was visiting his father. The Egyptians are incredibly proud of Sharm and its hundreds of hotels and shopping malls. Because it is something like a mini Las Vegas to them they want to present it to the rest of the world as a mark of development and progress. Personally, after the peace and quiet of Dahab I would probably not choose Sharm as a vacation destination. It is not like Egypt to me, rather it is a place for foreigners to party hard, lounge at the beach, and pay exorbitant prices for food and cheap souvenirs. I did enjoy my time there though because Ma’andi’s family was so generous and treated me like a V.I.P the whole time! On the second morning we went on a desert safari. Before sunrise we took 4 wheelers out into the desert and drove around for a couple hours. It was a great feeling to just cruise around and once again we stopped in a Bedouin camp for some tea and to watch the sunrise. The desert is a spectacular sight and every time I look across it I experience a mixture of fear and wonder considering how expansive and desolate a place it is.
On the bus ride home, slightly sun burned and tired, I reflected on the trip and Egypt and just how much this country has to offer. The places to see and variety of things to do are just endless. Next stop Alexandria… my time is running out!
Actually, according to my guide book, Dahab is the number one place for snorkeling in Sinai so I wasted no time renting a mask and some flippers and getting out into the sea. This was slightly trickier than I imagined because for first 100 yards you have to walk backwards amongst jagged rocks and stones in the shallow water until you reach the point where the ocean floor drops 50 or 60 ft. The way you do this is to walk almost until the edge and then you lie down in the shallow water, put your mask on and glide over the corals until you reach the edge. The sight that awaits you is truly astounding and as this was my first snorkeling experience I was completely blown away. The Red Sea is so dense and salty that it is easy to stay afloat, in fact, swimming is so effortless that it felt more like flying to my senses. When you are gliding above the reef with the ocean floor so far below you feel as if you are soaring not swimming. Of course the sea life was equally impressive and diverse with fish of all colors and types. After this experience I can easily understand how people become addicted to diving and snorkeling, as the world below is simply magical.
We spent most of the day in the water and then after dinner and a nap piled into a stifling minivan and drove to Mount Sinai at midnight. The climb takes around 3 hours and after experiencing it first hand I can honestly say it is not for the faint hearted. If this is in fact the mountain Moses climbed to receive the 10 commandments (as there is some dispute over this) than I am seriously impressed. I consider myself to be fit and healthy, but I was not expecting it to be quite so difficult. Armed with biscuits, flashlights, and cameras we began our climb with a group of Americans, Egyptians, Indians, and Israelis. Our guide started us off at a quick pace and only slowed as we passed through the Bedouin camp. We were walking here and I suddenly sensed something moving on the path beside me. Squinting through the dark I realized dozens and dozens of camels and young Bedouin men surrounded us. This was a surreal experience, as the men were dressed in galibayas, a floor length man dress, and turbans resting on their camels, looking exactly as they must have looked thousands of years ago, sitting in exactly the same spot.
We climbed and climbed with occasional water breaks but as the morning progressed the temperatures were falling and some members of the group were lagging behind. I decided to keep going because if I stopped too long or slowed down to wait I wouldn’t make it to the top for sunrise, which is the whole point of making the climb! So eventually 3 others and myself just powered ahead and tackled the 750 steps to the summit. I noticed there were much less people at the top than we had seen climbing, a testament to the difficulty of the climb I suppose that not everyone made it up. For those who did however, it was well worth it to see the amazing sunrise. Actually, Rhiannon, Maandi, and I nearly missed it altogether because we were wrapped up in a blanket on the ledge of the mountain half-asleep. Thankfully, Chris shook us awake in time to take the pictures and to marvel and the beauty around us. I have decided that Moses was not in fact up there praying for as long as the bible tells us, rather it took him so long to make the climb and he was too embarrassed to tell the Israelites he had struggled to carry the tablets down!
When we finally returned from the mountain back to Dahab everyone was exhausted. The rest of the day was spent sleeping and we only ventured out at night for a seafood dinner and then back to bed. The next day I decided go with Maa’ndi to Sharm al Sheikh where he was visiting his father. The Egyptians are incredibly proud of Sharm and its hundreds of hotels and shopping malls. Because it is something like a mini Las Vegas to them they want to present it to the rest of the world as a mark of development and progress. Personally, after the peace and quiet of Dahab I would probably not choose Sharm as a vacation destination. It is not like Egypt to me, rather it is a place for foreigners to party hard, lounge at the beach, and pay exorbitant prices for food and cheap souvenirs. I did enjoy my time there though because Ma’andi’s family was so generous and treated me like a V.I.P the whole time! On the second morning we went on a desert safari. Before sunrise we took 4 wheelers out into the desert and drove around for a couple hours. It was a great feeling to just cruise around and once again we stopped in a Bedouin camp for some tea and to watch the sunrise. The desert is a spectacular sight and every time I look across it I experience a mixture of fear and wonder considering how expansive and desolate a place it is.
On the bus ride home, slightly sun burned and tired, I reflected on the trip and Egypt and just how much this country has to offer. The places to see and variety of things to do are just endless. Next stop Alexandria… my time is running out!
Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Interesting Article in the Times
http://www.nytimes.com/2007/07/17/world/africa/17traffic.html?_r=1&hp&oref=slogin
I just read this article in the NY Times online this morning and I feel that it relates to many of the issues in Egyptian society that I have been attempting to convey in my blog. Also, I can personally attest to the validity of this reporters statements as there have been many times I've counted my blessings when crossing the street or riding in a cab. In this city where chaos abounds somehow people manage to get by and once you learn about the "system," or the rhythm, living here becomes much more comfortable.
I just read this article in the NY Times online this morning and I feel that it relates to many of the issues in Egyptian society that I have been attempting to convey in my blog. Also, I can personally attest to the validity of this reporters statements as there have been many times I've counted my blessings when crossing the street or riding in a cab. In this city where chaos abounds somehow people manage to get by and once you learn about the "system," or the rhythm, living here becomes much more comfortable.
1/2 way
I am officially past the halfway point of my time in this wonderful city. It is one of those strange feelings where time has passed so quickly yet so much has taken place and I have gone through many ordeals since I first met Ma'andi in Cairo airport. I think for this reason I did not feel guilty about spending last week just socializing instead of site seeing. I know I have much more to see here before I leave but I find that with an expanding network of friends there are various events going on most nights. In fact last week I had my first experience of a Cairo Night club that bears the unfortunate name of "Latex". Any other place in the world I would automatically think gay-bar but I heard it from good sources that this was THE club to go to in Cairo. The group we met there was possibly the most multi-national mix you can imagine, including a Nigerian, an Australian, a Pakistani, an Estonian, a Bangladeshi, an Indian, two Germans, and two Americans. All of them came to Cairo for internships originally and some already completed this and are planning to find permanent positions now. In some ways I felt marginally guilty for being with just foreigners, after all I am in Egypt to experience Middle East culture, but I am also getting something from each of these people too, considering they have such varied backgrounds. After an hour or so I realized that the club was only attended by ex-pats and tourists as most Egyptians were not allowed into the club unless they paid an extra fee/bribe. We stayed dancing until 4 am before my feet became unbearably sore and we decided to call it a night. I have learnt that there are common characteristics between people who travel and work abroad, particularly in a place like Egypt. They tend to be incredibly friendly, outgoing, spontaneous, and interesting. Ultimately this is because those who are willing to take risks and roll with the punches are best suited to the unpredictable and unexpected occurrences here, of which there are many!
A few nights later, Noora, another friend, invited us to a Mohammed Moneer concert at the Opera House. Apparently this guy is an extremely well known singer that many fondly acknowledge as "the King" of Egyptian music. I am not familiar with his music yet I thought it might be interesting to see what goes on at a concert in Cairo, so we agreed to join her. The Cairo Opera House has many different stages and theatres and was recently built in a joint venture between the Egyptian government and Japan. The complex is impressive and modern, but in true Egyptian style we arrived to find there were no public toilets open! After making our way through the mostly male crowd towards the stage we proceeded to wait for quite some time, again in true Egyptian style the concert that was due to start at 930pm did not get underway until 1130. When he did finally make an appearance the crowd went wild, jumping and climbing onto each other's shoulders to get a better look. I was slightly shocked by his appearance as he was a middle aged man with an afro wearing a white shirt unbuttoned halfway. Somehow he did not seem that "Egyptian" to me but this is another perfect example of the contradictions in this society. Although it is mostly conservative there are also subcultures of liberally minded people who accept a self-professed hippie like Moneer and who stay out late dancing and singing, women and men together. In general it was similar to any concert in the US or England and he was accompanied by an excellent band whose talents I could appreciate even though I was unfamiliar with the songs.
I have come to feel at home in this place and it will be difficult in August to say goodbye to everyone, but I will leave with some amazing memories. Also, something worth mentioning is that I now realize my interest in this region of the world is not purely conceptual. I talked for a long time about wanting to travel so I could immerse myself in a new culture and learn more about the politics and issues of the Middle East. Now I can say after this experience that I have only piqued my curiosity to discover more and to explore further the maze of relationships, which have placed the West at odds with the Middle East and Islam. This summer is just the tip of the iceberg I believe and I see a role for myself in the future to bridge the divide between these competing ideas and cultures. It has been a chance to test myself and consequently I have learned more about my capabilities and hopes for the future.
A few nights later, Noora, another friend, invited us to a Mohammed Moneer concert at the Opera House. Apparently this guy is an extremely well known singer that many fondly acknowledge as "the King" of Egyptian music. I am not familiar with his music yet I thought it might be interesting to see what goes on at a concert in Cairo, so we agreed to join her. The Cairo Opera House has many different stages and theatres and was recently built in a joint venture between the Egyptian government and Japan. The complex is impressive and modern, but in true Egyptian style we arrived to find there were no public toilets open! After making our way through the mostly male crowd towards the stage we proceeded to wait for quite some time, again in true Egyptian style the concert that was due to start at 930pm did not get underway until 1130. When he did finally make an appearance the crowd went wild, jumping and climbing onto each other's shoulders to get a better look. I was slightly shocked by his appearance as he was a middle aged man with an afro wearing a white shirt unbuttoned halfway. Somehow he did not seem that "Egyptian" to me but this is another perfect example of the contradictions in this society. Although it is mostly conservative there are also subcultures of liberally minded people who accept a self-professed hippie like Moneer and who stay out late dancing and singing, women and men together. In general it was similar to any concert in the US or England and he was accompanied by an excellent band whose talents I could appreciate even though I was unfamiliar with the songs.
I have come to feel at home in this place and it will be difficult in August to say goodbye to everyone, but I will leave with some amazing memories. Also, something worth mentioning is that I now realize my interest in this region of the world is not purely conceptual. I talked for a long time about wanting to travel so I could immerse myself in a new culture and learn more about the politics and issues of the Middle East. Now I can say after this experience that I have only piqued my curiosity to discover more and to explore further the maze of relationships, which have placed the West at odds with the Middle East and Islam. This summer is just the tip of the iceberg I believe and I see a role for myself in the future to bridge the divide between these competing ideas and cultures. It has been a chance to test myself and consequently I have learned more about my capabilities and hopes for the future.
Friday, July 6, 2007
Observations
Just some thoughts from this week:
1. Heliopolis (where I live) is sooo far from everywhere!
2. Fatima, my host mother, has a cunning plan to stop me from leaving Cairo, which is to fatten me up so much that I will not be able to fit in the airplane seat going back.
3. Cairo is at its best between 11pm and 3am.
4. Hosny Mubarak (the Egpytian President) will forever look about 55 with dark black hair and sunglasses, even though he is really 78yrs old and greying. (This is how he is shown on the Ministry of Social Solidarity!) p.s. what do they do in there?!
5. Egyptians love to talk about the 1973 war against Israel and how it has been omitted from some history books in the West
6. I now know what it is like to be a goldfish in a bowl. Try using any public transport/walking anywhere in Cairo as a foreign woman.
7. My digestive tract will never be the same again
8. My feet wil never be the same again after all the mosquito bites and literally being burnt from underneath because of the hot cement. No joke, my sandals got so hot today just walking on the street that I have blisters.
9. Egyptian red wine = not great
10. Journalism is becoming an appealing career option. Travel the world and write about what you see...what a life.
Work this week was fairly non existent because I have finished the franchise package and given it to Mr. Mamoun to review. He was vacationing this past week and left without giving me a new project, hence I have finished two books this week. "Reading Lolita in Tehran" by Azar Nafisi and "Veronica Decides to Die" by Paul Coelho. I have also started researching for an article about the political clout of the EU versus the U.S. and what the future holds for both in light of their past actions and the imminent leadership transitions.
Akanksha and I managed to fit in a few social events into our evenings this past week, which is no mean feat considering the ordeal required to get from home to downtown. This trip requires a cab to the metro (dispute over the fare) and then the metro to downtown (ignore the constant staring/impossible to find the cabin for women only) and then a cab to wherever (another debate about the fare). Plus, getting back is tricky as it is not advisable to take most public transport after 11pm, right at the time most events are starting here, but also after the curfew for Egyptian girls. However, there was a 4th of July party with Americans, Egyptians, Aussies, and Indians. No fireworks, but we had burgers and apple pie and beer! Also we made it to Cairo Jazz Club one night which was a real treat. The group playing was not pure/blues jazz persay but the singer had a nice voice and it was a change of scene from the usual coffeehouse and sheesha. The crowd was about half Caireans and half foreigners and at one point there were even a few people dancing and swaying to the music. I do feel most of the places I've been socializing lately have been in more traditional, subdued, Egyptian settings. By this I mean to say there are few women, especially unveiled ones, no alcohol, and certainly no dancing. So, there was something comforting about being in this atmosphere with young people in varied attire, chatting and having a drink or two. It is one of the few places that I have been able to blend in and this was relaxing in a strange way, something more familiar. Not that I would trade where I am for anything, this is a phenomenal experience, but I do at times need a freer, more contemporary atmosphere and a glass of wine!
1. Heliopolis (where I live) is sooo far from everywhere!
2. Fatima, my host mother, has a cunning plan to stop me from leaving Cairo, which is to fatten me up so much that I will not be able to fit in the airplane seat going back.
3. Cairo is at its best between 11pm and 3am.
4. Hosny Mubarak (the Egpytian President) will forever look about 55 with dark black hair and sunglasses, even though he is really 78yrs old and greying. (This is how he is shown on the Ministry of Social Solidarity!) p.s. what do they do in there?!
5. Egyptians love to talk about the 1973 war against Israel and how it has been omitted from some history books in the West
6. I now know what it is like to be a goldfish in a bowl. Try using any public transport/walking anywhere in Cairo as a foreign woman.
7. My digestive tract will never be the same again
8. My feet wil never be the same again after all the mosquito bites and literally being burnt from underneath because of the hot cement. No joke, my sandals got so hot today just walking on the street that I have blisters.
9. Egyptian red wine = not great
10. Journalism is becoming an appealing career option. Travel the world and write about what you see...what a life.
Work this week was fairly non existent because I have finished the franchise package and given it to Mr. Mamoun to review. He was vacationing this past week and left without giving me a new project, hence I have finished two books this week. "Reading Lolita in Tehran" by Azar Nafisi and "Veronica Decides to Die" by Paul Coelho. I have also started researching for an article about the political clout of the EU versus the U.S. and what the future holds for both in light of their past actions and the imminent leadership transitions.
Akanksha and I managed to fit in a few social events into our evenings this past week, which is no mean feat considering the ordeal required to get from home to downtown. This trip requires a cab to the metro (dispute over the fare) and then the metro to downtown (ignore the constant staring/impossible to find the cabin for women only) and then a cab to wherever (another debate about the fare). Plus, getting back is tricky as it is not advisable to take most public transport after 11pm, right at the time most events are starting here, but also after the curfew for Egyptian girls. However, there was a 4th of July party with Americans, Egyptians, Aussies, and Indians. No fireworks, but we had burgers and apple pie and beer! Also we made it to Cairo Jazz Club one night which was a real treat. The group playing was not pure/blues jazz persay but the singer had a nice voice and it was a change of scene from the usual coffeehouse and sheesha. The crowd was about half Caireans and half foreigners and at one point there were even a few people dancing and swaying to the music. I do feel most of the places I've been socializing lately have been in more traditional, subdued, Egyptian settings. By this I mean to say there are few women, especially unveiled ones, no alcohol, and certainly no dancing. So, there was something comforting about being in this atmosphere with young people in varied attire, chatting and having a drink or two. It is one of the few places that I have been able to blend in and this was relaxing in a strange way, something more familiar. Not that I would trade where I am for anything, this is a phenomenal experience, but I do at times need a freer, more contemporary atmosphere and a glass of wine!
Monday, July 2, 2007
"Baba Gat Mos"
It has not been long since my last post but the past 48 hrs have included some interesting events I feel compelled to comment on; although, I am uncertain whether I should put this in my blog or not. Some of these instances bring up some controversial topics. Either way, on Friday we left for a resort town on the Red Sea. A Cairo AIESECer, Omar, has family friends with a villa there so 11 of us, half Egyptians and half foreigners/interns, piled into two cars and made our way to the coast. In fact the original plan had been to leave at 9pm in time to barbeque and relax, but this turned into 11pm and then 1am... Honestly, it didn't matter to me at all because I have adjusted to the late schedule, yet this event serves as a prime example of "Egyptian time". The schedule here is much more flexible and you learn that when someone says 10am they probably mean a couple hours later depending on the traffic, the weather, and how they feel! Needless to say we needed food for our BBQ so after we met around 1030pm we still had to fight the crowds as everyone and their brother was in the local supermarket. Another hour or so later and we emerged with burgers, hotdogs, watermelon, and a soccer ball ready to start our journey. Of course, leaving Cairo inevitably includes traffic jams at every single junction and so our drive was significantly longer.
We arrived at the villa around 3am with everyone wide awake and starving. Grilling began and we sat around outside enjoying the quiet, cool evening. The eating over we walked out to the beach and talked until the sun came up about culture, AIESEC, and religion. We manged to cover some serious controversies in our discussion including Israel and Palestine, women and the veil, and Christianity and Islam. There were bound to be some contentious points as we were a group of Muslims and Christians, males and females, and Arabs and Americans. In particular, "us" foreign women were questioning the prescence of the veil in Egyptian society and assessing the stance of male Muslims, many of whom have mothers or sisters who wear the veil. It was suggested by someone that perhaps most girls wear the veil simply because it is the norm and it is easier to conform with the rest of their friends than to be singled out for exposing oneself. There is definitely a debate to be had over how much pressure comes from Islam and how much is purely societal. Each person had a slightly different perspective for each of these issues and even though no one's opinions was altered dramatically we agreed that each of us can learn from the other. The discussion would have been enhanced if we had a Muslim woman to speak with as opinions divided clearly between the men and the women, and the Egyptians and the foreigners, but I hope to have this chance in the future.
The next day at the beach provided an interesting situation related to our discussion and it is the inspiration for my post's title, which literally means "Dad brought bananas." It is a slang expression that people here use for an awkward situation or moment. Nothing could be more awkward than our experience at the beach the next day. Rhiannon, Coline, Akanksha, and Cathleen were the girls of the group and are respectively American, French, Indian, and American. So, generally we go to the beach to swim and sun ourselves. When we arrived there and looked out across the crowd I realized that a) there were only men in the sea and b) that all of the women were sitting on the beach completely covered. "Baba gat mos" There was even a family of burqa clad women sitting nearby with 5 women head to toe in black. I have to say they were as strange a sight to us as we were to them! We stood there for a while weighing up the situation and then decided that it was a public beach afterall and we had gone there to swim so we might aswell just go for it. It must have been quite a picture though. Under one umbrella the women are shrouded in black with only their eyes visible and 50 ft to the left there are 5 girls in bikinis and swimsuits tanning.
Our day at the beach was not long enough and in July I hope to go to the North Coast and Alexandria to visit the Mediterranean for 3 or 4 days. The chemistry of this group was really dynamic though, and I left with a feeling that I had gained more than just a tan from our short trip. We had to leave that night in order to get everyone back for work on Sunday. I am unusual as my weekend is Saturday and Sunday but everyone else is off on Friday and Saturday according to the Islamic calendar. It was a fabulous weekend rounded off with a warm reception and a meal from Fatima, my host mother, who was on holiday last week. She returned bearing gifts for Akanksha and I, some shell necklaces and bracelets and of course tons of food! Some of which was delicious such as the sweet, coconut desert called fiteer with lots of raisins and dates on a flaky pastry. Other dishes, for example chicken livers are not so appealing to me, but I will try anything once!
We arrived at the villa around 3am with everyone wide awake and starving. Grilling began and we sat around outside enjoying the quiet, cool evening. The eating over we walked out to the beach and talked until the sun came up about culture, AIESEC, and religion. We manged to cover some serious controversies in our discussion including Israel and Palestine, women and the veil, and Christianity and Islam. There were bound to be some contentious points as we were a group of Muslims and Christians, males and females, and Arabs and Americans. In particular, "us" foreign women were questioning the prescence of the veil in Egyptian society and assessing the stance of male Muslims, many of whom have mothers or sisters who wear the veil. It was suggested by someone that perhaps most girls wear the veil simply because it is the norm and it is easier to conform with the rest of their friends than to be singled out for exposing oneself. There is definitely a debate to be had over how much pressure comes from Islam and how much is purely societal. Each person had a slightly different perspective for each of these issues and even though no one's opinions was altered dramatically we agreed that each of us can learn from the other. The discussion would have been enhanced if we had a Muslim woman to speak with as opinions divided clearly between the men and the women, and the Egyptians and the foreigners, but I hope to have this chance in the future.
The next day at the beach provided an interesting situation related to our discussion and it is the inspiration for my post's title, which literally means "Dad brought bananas." It is a slang expression that people here use for an awkward situation or moment. Nothing could be more awkward than our experience at the beach the next day. Rhiannon, Coline, Akanksha, and Cathleen were the girls of the group and are respectively American, French, Indian, and American. So, generally we go to the beach to swim and sun ourselves. When we arrived there and looked out across the crowd I realized that a) there were only men in the sea and b) that all of the women were sitting on the beach completely covered. "Baba gat mos" There was even a family of burqa clad women sitting nearby with 5 women head to toe in black. I have to say they were as strange a sight to us as we were to them! We stood there for a while weighing up the situation and then decided that it was a public beach afterall and we had gone there to swim so we might aswell just go for it. It must have been quite a picture though. Under one umbrella the women are shrouded in black with only their eyes visible and 50 ft to the left there are 5 girls in bikinis and swimsuits tanning.
Our day at the beach was not long enough and in July I hope to go to the North Coast and Alexandria to visit the Mediterranean for 3 or 4 days. The chemistry of this group was really dynamic though, and I left with a feeling that I had gained more than just a tan from our short trip. We had to leave that night in order to get everyone back for work on Sunday. I am unusual as my weekend is Saturday and Sunday but everyone else is off on Friday and Saturday according to the Islamic calendar. It was a fabulous weekend rounded off with a warm reception and a meal from Fatima, my host mother, who was on holiday last week. She returned bearing gifts for Akanksha and I, some shell necklaces and bracelets and of course tons of food! Some of which was delicious such as the sweet, coconut desert called fiteer with lots of raisins and dates on a flaky pastry. Other dishes, for example chicken livers are not so appealing to me, but I will try anything once!
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